Re: Spare Parts


#1

As I have previously posted my WD 1TB MyBook’s USB interface broke off the board. I was wondering if there is anywhere that sells spare boards. I don’t mind where they are in the world, or if they are used etc, I just would like to try a few cheaper options before I send it off for $850 data recovery.

Thanks.


#2

The boards are not readily interchangable. There is hardware and password encryption involved. Did you try and see if an electronics tech could solder port back on?

Joe


#3

The usb port is missing 2 of the 5 metal prong things. So even if I got a board that had the same revision and things it could be different?


#4

The chips for encryption will be different on another board fzabkar is about the only one who here really understands these boards. He guided somebody else through soldering wires to where the port broke off then put on another port there outside the case for data retieval.  If you got another board would you or somebody you be up to removing the chips and resoldering to the other board? WD does not sell the boards. Sorry I can’t be more helpful.

Joe


#5

My goodness, I don’t think I would be up to soldering chips, but I may be able to find someone who could. I think I should ask fzabkar about this. I was hoping it would be as easy as unplugging one board and replacing it with another. Unfortunately life isn’t easy.

Thank you for you help anyway.


#6

Would it be possible to get someone to take the usb connection off this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200562327631&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123 and attach it mine? It has very similar codes, my control board on mine has a label CD1UA203091104A45 and 4061-105059-003 Rev.AA. and a stamp on the board, 4061-105059-003 Rev.P1.

Thanks.


#7

I have no idea about that. Send fzabkar a PM maybe he can explain better. I would be suspicious of the board myself coming from Hong Kong.

Joe


#8

One stupid question at this time. What is your Ex-HDD’s WD model number? It may not have inbuilt hardware encryption. If that is the case you can use eBay item or any other USB enclosure to retrieve your data.


#9

It has encryption, I have already had some IT people use a SATA Cable to try and back it up an dthey said they couldn’t see the data properly. The model number is WDBAAF0010HBK-AESN. I am asuming that it wouldn’t matter what kind SATA cable they used, as to what data they could retrieve.


#10

Thank you for the reply. Don’t buy interface card from eBay as it won’t work on your data recovery. You forgot to mention “Essentials” part on your initial post. All Essentials and Passports have drive encryption. I think you’ll be better off if get any cheap USB board just to get micro USB port for salvage. Mouser.com has spare micro USB parts to fit in to your requirement. Check their site.


#11

Thank you for that website, would you happen to know which one would be best for my kind of board? Or should I just ask them?

It would be amazing if it could turn out to be this easy.


#12

Finding correct PN is bit of pain… I you can verify eBay pictures and confirm the size and the type of the USB port, I can help you to get Mouser part number.

If figurers are same as your original board…

I already checked eBay pix that you have attached. According to that, it must be USB Mini socket.

Look at the bottom of this PDF page… Fig. M.

Make sure to match insulator color.  

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/630/980.PDF

Also order 03 units at least. So you have two spare if something goes wrong when soldering. Hot air or precision soldering iron (properly grounded) can do the job.


#13

Thank you for getting back to me, I am at work so I can’t check the details, but it is definitely a mini usb socket, and looks like the one in the picture. I will take a photo of the board and the connection tonight and put it up here. Thanks for you help.


#14

If you have a dig cam with macro shot, that will be great. Make two or three images (front, back where you see the soldered pins and overall PCB) Use some photo editing software to crop down large high quality images. I only want to see the area and the condition of PCB and USB mini port. (I hope your USB socket is still in place)

Please note: I just used to buy spare parts from Mouser for my repair work. I do not represent Mouser.


#15

IMG_2527.JPG IMG_2530.JPG IMG_2528.JPG 

I hope these help or are good enough, please let me know if I need to show something else in the photos. Sorry if the pics are too big or anything. Thanks.


#16

Your images are yet to be approved. So we have to wait until they are visible on the page…


#17

How long does it usually take to have pic’s approved?


#18

Hello,

It could take up to 24 hours for the images to be aprove, but normally is done within a few hours.


#19

Excellent!

Your PCB is okay and your USB socket is also okay except for broken connection pins. You could either buy a fresh spare part and solder it or you could still mend the old one if you have needle tipped 15-20watts soldering iron. You could have done this without removing the socket from the board.

Make sure to remove 5 leftover lead parts from PCB before everything.

You could use thin copper wires to bridge the broken leads under an illuminated magnifying glass. And you need little talent and experience too.

Make sure your soldering iron is properly grounded. Or leakage current from iron tip will destroy sensitive electronics.

Bare in mind that all electronic devices are static sensitive. Synthetic carpets and Air condition make things worse. If you have not followed these; your PCB might already be damaged. (I did not ask you to desolder the socket)

I could have help you to get this thing fixed if I live in your country.  :cry: I don’t think you’re a Sri Lankan.  :wink:

Good luck with whatever you do.


#20

Just noticed. Somehow you managed brakeoff one pad from the PCB while desoldering or was already broken. This makes the socket too fragile. Use super glue to bond the socket to PCB before resolder for added strength.

Use nail polish remover or similar (Carbon Tetrachloride / TrichloroEthylene) to remove grim on location before and after the soldering.