Help with fried HDD again, TVS diode, 0-ohm resistors, you know the spiel

[pawelq]

Being stupid I used a power cable from a wrong PSU (Corsair cable with an EVGA PSU) and fried a HDD. Two, actually, because why not do risky things on two drives at a time, especially if they serve as each other’s backup. Not a complete backup, I am not THAT stupid, important stuff was elsewhere. But I’d be glad if you could recover less important stuff too.

I see that there are very knowledgeable people here, so maybe you could help.

Both were 2TB WD drives.

Yellow WD2003FYYS has big burn marks on major chips so probably hopeless?

Red WD20EFRX looks healthier, no visible burns.

Here is the picture of the Red’s PCB.

Resistance measurements:
R43, R60: over limit
D1: 0.8 ohm / 0.8 ohm
D2: 33 Kohm / 0.8 Kohm
D3: 0.8 ohm / 0.8 ohm
D4: 33 Kohm / 0.8 Kohm

So, two TVS diodes per voltage rail? And should I remove D1 AND D3, and replace R43 and R60 with a blob of solder?

Any advice very welcome. Hopefully from @fzabkar - who seems to be very knowledgeable and helpful

[fzabkar]

The WD2003FYYS PCB probably has a burnt SMOOTH motor controller. If so, then the preamp on the headstack (inside the HDA) has probably been damaged also.

The WD20EFRX has a shorted 5V TVS diode (D3). The 12V TVS diode (D4) is OK.

D1 and D2 are Schottky rectifiers, so they will be OK.

If you wish to risk a repair, remove D3 by snipping its pins with flush cutters, and then flow a blob of solder over R43 and R60.

Otherwise you could purchase a replacement PCB and transfer the ROM at U12. Some vendors, eg hdd-parts.com, will supply the PCB and swap the ROM for US$50 in total.

[pawelq]

Thank you, sir!

If you are interested for your own sake, I can post the picture of the WD2003FYYS PCB.

I think I’ll try the “repair” now, as I said important stuff has been backed up elsewhere and I am not sure if I want to spend even $50 on the less important stuff.

[pawelq]

Thank you again. It worked perfectly!

Of course, now copying all stuff to a newer drive, this “fixed” one is not to be trusted anymore, I suppose.

[akmv]

@fzabkar

WD20EFRX

Hi,

Thanks in advance. Same thing hapend with me (Corsair cable with an EVGA PSU) three WD20EFRX dead. Checked the diode (D3), it is short. Unable to identify the part number, could you please help me with the part number or alternative. Ordered three bords, but it taking ages to reach. The data needed urgently. Please help me.

[fzabkar]

@ akmv, just remove D3. There is no no need to replace it. You will need to flow a blob of solder over the zero-ohm resistor.

If there are no other problems, you should be OK. However, there is some risk, so you may want to get hold of a multimeter and make some additional measurements. Pay special attention to the motor controller IC. If it is damaged, then repairing your patient PCB will not be viable.

“Adaptives” – why PCB swaps don’t work in modern HDDs:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?p=19090#p19090