Client has brought in some drives that all have the same issue and I was looking for some help dx’ing them. First picture is what I believe might be the problem area, and the second picture has a component that looks unfamiliar with a circle on top and looks suspect to me, but not sure.
I do have a multimeter, just need to know what to test.
Did your client do this?
Warning: do not interchange modular PSU cables:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=2545
If so, then the typical result is a shorted 5V TVS diode and/or open fuse. Your drive also has a second level of protection in the form of 5V and 12V e-fuses.
The component with the circle is an inductor. The circle is a mould mark. It is probably OK.
Near the SATA power connector are 4 diodes. The two largest are the TVS diodes. The two tiny components marked “S” are 4A fuses.
The two e-fuses are the 8-pin ICs marked ARPK and AWBK.
TVS Diode FAQ:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=86
PCB protection devices:
https://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=1615
I understand what you are asking but in computer terms the definitions are different. What computer did these boards come out of?
Client Definition - What is a client?
Motherboard Definition - What is a motherboard?
Are you a computer repair shop?
The motherboard on the disk is not interchangeable. I suggest a tool free USB enclosure so that testing can be done more easily when a repair is considered. I suggest the Blueendless BS-MR35T which I use for copying disks onto NAS etc.
My client swapped power supplies in between external drives by accident. This is one of the drives that stopped working after that, from inside a G-Drive. So, if I’m understanding correctly, it’s fine to remove all 4 of the diodes by the power connector?
No, you only remove the shorted diode. Your client deserves better than a shotgun approach to troubleshooting.
Get hold of a multimeter, even a cheap DMM will do (~US$5 - $10). Measure the resistances as I have explained in my FAQ. In the case of external drives that have been overvolted, the typical fault is the 12V TVS diode and/or its associated fuse. What you do next depends on what you find.
Shotgun approach? My client deserves better?
Don’t know exactly why it was necessary to say those things, as I am simply asking questions on new subject matter for me and that kind of feels insulting.
As mentioned, I do have an Extech Multimeter and will test. As an aside, I am rather appreciative of your time, experience and knowledge. I will report back shortly.
Fuse on the left has no continuity, fuse on the right reads .5 Ohms. Large diode on right reads 93.7 Ohms, Large Diode on left reads 00.5 Ohms
The reason I mentioned shotgunning is because I see numerous cases in the professional data recovery forums where incompetent people with no knowledge of electronics resort to such approaches. You would be appalled at the number of disasters I have witnessed at the hands of these people.
As for your measurements, the left side is the problem. If by left you mean the edge of the PCB, then that’s the 12V side. If, after removing the diode, the short is cleared, then you should be good to replace the fuse and give it a go. If the drive still fails to spin, then the 12V e-fuse would be the next step.
Best of luck.
Fuse on the left (edge of PCB) has been replaced, TVS diode on left has been removed. Drive is now not turning off my HDD cradle (good), but it is still not spinning up.
Check the two e-fuses, particularly the 12V e-fuse / load switch.
https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?p=286841#p286841
The capacitors on the left are the inputs, those on the right are the outputs.
Also, be aware that SATA pin #3 is the Power Disable pin.
SATA power disable was an issue a very long time ago. I never had issues but disks adopted the SATA standard when SATA II was released which I used with USB boxes with 2TB limits. The 8TB SATA boxes were SATA III which is faster but USB 2.0 disk boxes are slow compared to more recent gear. I have SATA, SATA II and SATA III disks and all work in my USB enclosures.
EIDE disks were tricky to install into USB enclosures,
I use laptops so I do not see issues desktop people endure.
