Update to my previous comments: I read how the power on/off button was different now so I tried it. I would actually have preferred if it was now the same as pulling the plug, but it isn’t. If I use the power off button then back on I still never get a sync signal and my TV goes to sleep.
One interesting difference though … when I switch away and back with my receiver the HDMI light on my receiver keeps flashing like there is no HDMI signal. Now, when I use the power off/on button the HDMI light is solid, but my TV still says no sync signal and sleeps.
In all cases for me unplugging the power cord and plugging back in will get it working again. This is a major hassle and something that I’ve had to teach my children since I’m not always around – and I’d really prefer not having my kids messing with these things … I would much prefer the power off/on button doing the same thing as pulling the power … well, actually, I’d rather all these issues be fixed, but I guess that goes w/o saying.
Update to the update: ok, sorry, I spoke too soon. Pulling the power cord and plugging back in does not always get it working again. I just had the case where removing the power cord and plugging back in did not fix it. When the cord was plugged back in the WD logo appeared which means that the HDMI was working briefly right? Anyway, then the logo disappeared and my TV said no sync signal and went to sleep and remained that way. I tried the power reboot several times, same thing. I then tried the reset button and that didn’t work. Finally, and I’m not sure why this made any difference, but it did work, I powered off via the power button then while powered off I poked the reset button and that made it power back on and I guess maybe that worked because it resets settings? I don’t know, but it did work and I was very glad because I really dread having to pull all this gear out to change cables.
So, since this last upgrade I’ve had varying behavior where sometimes the power code unplug/plug has worked and other times when it has not. I’ve had times where poking the reset works and others when it does not. I’ve even seen it work with the power off/on button works. And then the last case above. Very strange inconsistent behavior.
Update to the update: ok, sorry, I spoke too soon. Pulling the power cord and plugging back in does not always get it working again. I just had the case where removing the power cord and plugging back in did not fix it. When the cord was plugged back in the WD logo appeared which means that the HDMI was working briefly right? Anyway, then the logo disappeared and my TV said no sync signal and went to sleep and remained that way. I tried the power reboot several times, same thing. I then tried the reset button and that didn’t work. Finally, and I’m not sure why this made any difference, but it did work, I powered off via the power button then while powered off I poked the reset button and that made it power back on and I guess maybe that worked because it resets settings? I don’t know, but it did work and I was very glad because I really dread having to pull all this gear out to change cables.
So, since this last upgrade I’ve had varying behavior where sometimes the power code unplug/plug has worked and other times when it has not. I’ve had times where poking the reset works and others when it does not. I’ve even seen it work with the power off/on button works. And then the last case above. Very strange inconsistent behavior.
The first logo comes up at (I believe) 720p and then there is no signal (for some time). The unit then attempts to connect at the maximum resolution for your TV, you then see the second WD logo. I assume that if you do not see the second WD logo then the handshaking has gone wrong and the unit is set to a resolution that your TV does not handle. You could try setting the correct resolution / frequency manually and see how that goes.
I’ve just installed this update and the menu seems to be rather slow or slugish for lack of a better term and I’m being told that everything I try to play is not a supported file format, while all these files worked on the stable version.
Edit:
I’ve just installed this update and the menu seems to be rather slow or slugish for lack of a better term and I’m being told that everything I try to play is not a supported file format, while all these files worked on the stable version.
Edit:
Had to restart it twice but it now works, menu still seems kinda slow/slugish though.
The nice menu fade in/out transitions no longer work for me.
HDMI worked find on auto with my samsung LA680. It never switched to lower res.
12bit on my tv shows images with odd white artifacts. I’m guessing my tv doesn’t support 12 bit. 8 bit works fine.
It has hung a few time while trying to find and load files that were located on my iMac but that could be caused by many things unrelated to the media drive.
upgrade ok without major problems ( sony bravia kdl-37v4500)
auto mode gives 720p@50hz (stable versions gave 1080p)
3. manually set 1080p@60hz … no problems after reboot
switch off tv (wd box still on ) and after a few minutes → 720p@50hz
i’ve got here 2 test movies (mkv; 24p; dts) , which were played perfectly with v. 1.01.00 @24hz ., but with earlier firmwires they went out of sync after a couple of time ( not much, i guess 100-200 ms; no receiver). @1080p@60hz it’s ok and watchable.
nevertheless i’m quiet happy with the firmware support.
dvd menue is working well (iso / audio_ts/video_ts stucture might be important … remember: this is not kmplayer or vlc)
No changes from V1.03.40, V1.03.41, V1.03.42, I repeat my old report:
12-color depth still not working (blank screen only)
if WDTV Live is set to 1080p 60Hz RGB High, it works fine, but if you turn off TV for a few minutes (wait to hear “click” from the TV), then on again, WDTV drops to 1080p 60Hz RGB Low, and I have to set it again to RGB High. There was no problem like that with V1.02.21, but the same problem is at V1.03.40, V1.03.41, V1.03.42.
It happens even if the WDTV is turned on all the times, also if you put a playback on a “pause” - it is enough just to turn TV off.
most of the times, after turning off WDTV, the 1080p/60Hz setting is remembered, but the other times it drops to 720p/60Hz, and RGB High setting is almost never remembered.
The KDL40W4500 also boasts a 10 bit panel. Where most televisions can only show 256 shades of red, green or blue (8 bit) this Sony ups that figure to 1024 for each colour, giving a more naturally rendered, realistic picture. This means it can show x.v.colour pictures from Blu-ray sources in all their splendour.
Been running off firmware V 1.03.22 beta for a while now and have been game to update till this latest beta.
The old firmware was ok for me, see how this goes now.
There are two features that seem to be missing since these beta’s, unless Ive missed how to action them.
*With official firmware when in Preview Mode, you could stop the preview by pressing the stop button, but you cannot with the beta’s? Its a pain when stopping a file and its starts to preview again and you cant stop it without going back another step.
*Love having DVD menus, but you cannot zoom in when using the menu system? The zoom feature is missing from the options?
The new update works fine but still no support for Code page 1258 (unicode for Vietnamese subtitle). Please include CP1258 for Vietnamese community. Besides, loading for youtube is still slow in the start though it works after that. Can you include a function that user can clear the search history in the Video/Youtube.
Thanks
They had to remove the Standby feature as the power usage didn’t comply with new EU standards or something silly.
So, whenever you hit the Power button, it’s shutting down entirely. It’s booting up from cold every time (hence the longer load times). Unfortunately that’s here to stay.
Does that mean it now loses resume-points in movies when you hit the Power button, as happens when you switch off at the wall?
i have two WD TV live. The first is connect su LCD samsung via HDMI and it’s OK, the second is connect to PLASMA panasonic via HDMI, but hdmi not detect the connection and i rollbacked the firmaware.
The TV where WD TV not works is PANASONIC 42PV60!
In the future, is it planned to fix the problem on this TV ?
As previously mentioned, for me, this beta works just fine, still.
The menus seem faster, not slower compared to another post above.
As for the unit continually sending out a signal and your TV not auto-shutting off, many devices behave this way. My sat receiver also does that. Since I use a harmony 880 remote, I simply have it power off my tv along with all other devices.
This beta seems to behave like v1.03.42. Sometimes I get “no signal” from the TV, i found out that the solution for me is to turn off/on the TV and the signal is back on.
The order to turn on the devices may be important. When i get no signal (when all devices are On), I just turn off/on the TV (with the remote) and the image of the Live appears immediately.
Yes, the WD doesn’t turn of, it just sends a black picture or something - Its been that way forever - you have to pull the plug on it.
Are you sure about this ? My wd tv live is connected to my tv via the composite output and with the
firmware 1.02.21 after turning off the wd, my tv doesn’t receive signal from the wd tv live. But with
this firmware, when my wd is off, my tv receive a signal → black screen. This is quite annoying
because, each time my tv is on, it switches automatically to the composite input even when the wd is
off.
Yes, the WD doesn’t turn of, it just sends a black picture or something - Its been that way forever - you have to pull the plug on it.
Are you sure about this ? My wd tv live is connected to my tv via the composite output and with the
firmware 1.02.21 after turning off the wd, my tv doesn’t receive signal from the wd tv live. But with
this firmware, when my wd is off, my tv receive a signal → black screen. This is quite annoying
because, each time my tv is on, it switches automatically to the composite input even when the wd is
off.
PS: Please apologize for my english.
Well that I was trying to say was that it doesn’t seem to turn of - it still sends a signal - its just a black signal. But then I think the hardware doesn’t support soft switching off.
