WD Black2 Dual Drive & Windows 10

This is to the best of my memory how it went…

Installed WD True image Acronis on a working Win 8.1 system
Connected the Black² via USB cable provided with the drive
Ran Win Disk Manager and removed all partitions on Black² as it was previously used in another laptop
Then True Image was used to create a 111.8GB the ONLY partition
Then I cloned the Windows 10 system to the Black² 111.8 partition
I installed the Black² in to the drive bay of the same laptop it was cloned from
It would not boot, Windows gave me a boot error something indicating “boot/BCD” as the issue
In a last ditch effort I inserted a Windows 10 install DVD booted from it and told it to fix boot problems
Then after it ran the trouble shooter it booted up fine, I was shocked.
Next I set the remaining disk space on the Black² to 1 big partition as the D: drive
Booted again and again and it’s been fine since December when I did all this and has had all the updates from Microsoft with no further issues. I tried to install the WD Black² install software right after the first successful reboot and prior to making the D: partition, but it could NOT find a WD drive to install it on and so it failed. I tried it in compatibility mode for Win 8.1 and Win 7 no luck at all.

So now, when I get time in a month or so, I will start all over again and see if I can:
Clear all the partitions
Make a new partition of 97GB (as I read that was a good size as it’s well under 120GB)
Then I will try a custom (clean) Windows 10 install from the DVD.

Good morning all. I have verified it is a win10 problem. I cloned the new SSD drive again, WD software could still not see the HD partition. I then installed Win Vista onto the SSD drive and running Vista I ran the WD software I was able to see and unlock HD Partition easily. Inpulled the WD drive out and put 250 SSD back in to clone it and win10 saw the Partition. But when I weNt to clone win10 again to get rid of vista I had the same issue as Fltheme. Win10 wants to be cloned to the 2 patitions as one. I don’t want that as I wanted win10 on the SSD part of drive. So right now I’m reinstalling Vista, will upgrade to win8 then sin10 as all I have are upgrade versions. I know you are supposed to be able to still do a fresh install but I can’t get it to work.

I’ve upgraded to Win10 now and all is working good. Have OS on SSD and have 1TB storage as well as the other 500GB HD in system. What a long process. I have to reinstall all my programs but I guess that’s life.

Okay, so all is working except for some reason I have 197 mb unallocated at beginning of the SSD and 450 mb at the beginning of the HD drive. Which doesn’t really matter other than it bugs me.

Thanks! I had to try and weed out some of the confusing details. But I am still confused about some parts of the process you describe.

I rewrote your description like this:

  1. Booted Windows 8.1 on the PC (laptop).
  2. Installed Acronis True Image (WD Edition).
  3. Connected the Black2 to the PC (using provided USB cable).
  4. Removed all partitions on the Black2 (using Disk Management).
  5. Created a single 111.8 GB partition at the beginning of the disk (using Acronis Disk Director ??).
  6. Cloned the Windows 10 (??) system to the 111.8 GB partition on the Black2.
  7. Installed the Black2 in to the drive bay of the same (??) laptop it was cloned from.
  8. Did not boot! (Because of “boot/BCD” error.)
  9. Booted from a Windows 10 DVD and used it to fix boot problems.
  10. Removed the DVD and restarted the PC.
  11. Booted up OK!
  12. Created a second partition on Black2 (using Disk Management).
  13. Up and running with Windows 10 on a Black2 drive!???

Per step 5, you said your used True Image to create the partition. But you meant Disk Director, correct? It’s not so important, but it adds to the confusion, because I have to make assumptions and read between the lines.

Per step 6, you said you cloned a Windows 10 system. What? How? When? I am pretty sure you said you used Windows 8.1. But you did say a Windows 8.1 system, as opposed to the Windows 10 system. So you used 2 PCs then?

Per step 7, you said “same” laptop. As opposed to what? Another laptop? See this strengthens my hypothesis that you did use more than one laptop. But the best thing is if you can shed some light on that for me please?

Per step 13, hallelujah! You’re suddenly running Windows 10 on the Black2 and everything is working fine. The Windows 8.1 installation has magically disappeared?

I’m sorry if you feel like I’m over-analyzing your statements. But as you can see, it’s not so easy to describe all these steps once you start thinking about it. You said it yourself that you do not have a fresh memory of it. I know how it is, believe me. I too would have forgotten it shortly after doing it. That’s why we have to keep a log and write down what we’re doing when we perform a complicated task. Picture disassembling a truck engine for the first time, without having any kind of system for what part goes where. Good luck assembling it again.

I’m not saying you should do that, that’s obviously up to you how you want to work. I’m just saying it can prove to be very useful later on, for instance when you want to start over and do the same thing you did several years ago. If you have not done it many times you will not remember it, that’s just life, it’s how our memory works. Plus, you can provide the notes to help someone else with the same problem.

Somehow I get the feeling that you are restraining yourself from doing a fresh, clean installation of Windows 10. Possibly because you remember how hard it was the last time to get this thing working on your Black2 drive, and you don’t want to go through that again. I might be wrong! But I’m sure you will have to that at some point. You say you plan on doing a clean install in a month or so. I wish you good luck with that! By the end of it, I’m sure you will become an expert on installing Windows on the WD Black2! :slightly_smiling:

It’s needless to say that you will need a bootable system to perform the initial cleaning and partitioning of the drive. You can’t be running Windows on the same drive you will be doing the cleaning on. You can use the Windows 10 DVD if you have one to perform this task, or a bootable USB drive with Windows on. Use diskpart command line utility for more precise and thorough cleaning and partitioning instead of the GUI.

Also, I don’t see any good reason for making the first partition only 97 GB. Yes, 97 is less than 120. But so is 20 GB! What’s the point? The SSD part of the Black2 is already small as it is. It measures only 120 GB. Why make it even smaller? That only means that you can install less software on it, and store less data on it. If you want it as big as possible, without overlapping to the platters (as you put it), then use 111.75 GB as the size of the first partition. If you want exact numbers, then use one of these numbers:

KBytes: 117187500
MBytes: 114440
GBytes: 111.75

Your SSD might perform better and live longer if you leave some unallocated space at the end of the first partition. This has to do with something called over provisioning. But I’m not sure if WD uses over provisioning. But it is present on SSD drives from Samsung. So you might be better off by going all out and using all that available disk space on your SSD.

Would that be the Samsung 250 GB SSD?

It sounds to me like you don’t know what disk cloning is. Disk cloning is done between two physical disk drives. You can’t clone from a disk to a disk partition. Unless your software allows you to do some sort of partition level cloning.

What you want to do in this type of case is image the disk drive, and then restore the image to a disk partition of another physical disk drive. This will allow you that level of control, whereby you can use a disk partition as the target.

Traditional disk cloning is a one by one copy operation. If the disk drive is 40 GB, you need another 40 GB disk drive to clone the first one. Assume that the first drive has two partitions: 20 GB and 20 GB. Assume that the second drive is 60 GB and has two partitions: 30 GB and 30 GB. When you “clone” the first drive, it will be cloned to the entire 60 GB drive. You can’t say “clone the first 20 GB (partition) to the first 30 GB (partition) of the second drive”. Cloning doesn’t work that way. What you want to do in that case is “image” the 20 GB partition, and restore it on the 30 GB partition of the second drive. Unless of course your software allows for partition level cloning. But traditionally, the term “disk cloning” doesn’t mean that.

I hope you will find this useful.

How have you tried to do a clean installation? Did you get any error message?

You might be able to fix that with a bootable version of Acronis Disk Director. Don’t remove the 450 MB partition as it contains recovery tools for the operating system. This is not to be compared with the “unallocated” 197 MB at the beginning of the disk. You might be able to use Disk Director, or another bootable tool, to just move everything to the left so you don’t have that 197 MB unused.

I understand you have upgraded from Windows Vista to Windows 7 to Windows 10. If your Windows Vista and 7 licenses were all genuine, then your copy of Windows 10 will also be genuine and it should have been activated the first time you upgraded to it for free. Once that is done, you are able to do a clean installation of Windows 10.

Doing a clean installation of Windows 10 is something I would strongly recommend at this point. I know I would not want to keep carrying all the garbage files from all previous Windows versions, and I can’t recommend anyone else to do something I would not do on my own computer. If the HDD portion of Black2 can be activated without the WD software, then there is no point in upgrading multiple times. Just do a clean install of Windows 10 on the Black2 and then do the trick you did to activate the HDD portion of Black2.

If the trick requires partitioning the Black2 first, then you can do that in the Windows 10 setup. But don’t use the GUI, use the diskpart command utility. I will assume that the description that Flhthemi has given is working. So here’s what I would do.

  1. Get a bootable Windows 10 USB or DVD installation media.
  2. Power off.
  3. Remove all other disk drives from the system except the Black2.
  4. Power on.
  5. Boot up from installation media and enter setup.
  6. Open command prompt with Shift+F10.
  7. Type diskpart and press Enter. What follows is a set of commands to use in diskpart.
  8. list disk
  9. select disk 0
  10. list disk
  11. clean
  12. create partition primary size=114440 label=“Black2 SSD”
  13. format quick
  14. exit
  15. Type exit to exit out of the command prompt.
  16. Refresh the list of disks and partitions on the GUI.
  17. Select the partition labeled “Black2 SSD” and click Next to install Windows 10 on it.

Note! Make sure the disk you select is your SSD disk and not something else. So it may or may not be enumerated as disk 0 in your case. Look at the size for clues, and then use the appropriate number to select the right disk. After selecting it, I suggest use the “list disk” command again to make sure the right disk is selected before issuing the next command. It will have an asterisk character next to it.

You may be able to activate the HDD part of the Black2 right from the command line. I just don’t know. I can’t tell you for sure as I have no Black2 to work on here and I can’t see your monitor. It may appear as two disks actually on your end. I just don’t know at what point or by what means the stupid Black2 drive appears as two disks to the operating system, or as one big 1043.3 GB drive.

If I knew how this magic happens, I might be able to prepare a disk template which you can image to your drive (if you can trust me) and immediately get all the partitions right where you want them. That’s actually not a bad idea to create a template like that for yourself, if you know how to do it, so you can reuse it multiple times or share it with other Black2 owners who are struggling.

If you use diskpart to partition the drive during setup, Windows will normally respect your partitioning and not create a separate 450 MB recovery partition. It will place everything on that first partition you created and selected in setup. But this only works when done in diskpart, not in the GUI.

If you want additional partitions, and your HDD part of the Black2 is exposed in diskpart, you can go ahead and create it right away. Again, using diskpart, not the GUI. If you want to be able to create several partitions, or you want more than 3 partitions in the 1 TB HDD portion of your Black2, you can create an extended partition. Just run diskpart again like before, but when you create the partition, use these commands:

  1. select disk 0
  2. create partition extended
  3. create partition logical

You can specify a size for the logical if you want. You will have to do that if you want several partitions in the extended partition. But you can also do that later on in another, more familiar program like Disk Management while running Windows. But in case of Black2 it’s just a question of whether or not it will be exposed in the Disk Management or not.

Just don’t specify any size for the extended partition, as there can only be one, and you can’t place any logical partitions to the right of it. So if the extended partition is small and you have unallocated space to the right of it, you won’t be able to use it. Not until you extend the extended partition to the end of the disk. So therefore, if you don’t specify a size for the extended partition when you are creating it, diskpart will let it run to the end of the disk which is preferred.

I hope you will find this info helpful. If not… well, then I am sorry. But my hands are tied, and my eyes are shut. There is very little I can do from my end to resolve the problem for you. We would probably need to talk over the phone and I would have to work with you directly, one on one, to resolve the problem and get you up and running with a neat and clean Windows 10 installation and a working WD Black2 SSD/HDD as intended. But frankly, this is what WD Support is for. WD made this mess! It’s their product, it’s their bad design and implementation, and it’s their software that’s not working, it’s their software that’s not made Windows 10 compatible. Not that I would not want to help you! I would love to help you.

Maybe WD can donate a WD Black2 to me or lend me one for testing? That way, I could work out a solution for this conundrum. After all, I am using my free time to help their customers.

I’m not familiar with the built in Acronis applicatios so I don’t know the names. I know I used Acronis True Image from WD download site so if Disk Director is part of that, yes it is what was used.

I did use 2 PCs. I only used the Win 8.1 machine (A Desktop PC) to use Disk Manager in the one instance. The Win 10 clone came from the SAME laptop the Black² was going to be installed into. It was Win 10 on, I think, a WD 320GB Blue.

Yeah well, I do have 2 laptops both Toshiba one P855 series (Not used at all in this process) and a P305 series which WAS used for this process.

Correct except there was no Win 8.1 at all that magically disappeared, as I have stated above, only used the Win 8.1 machine to initially remove ALL partitions on the Black² and for NOTHING else.

The only reason I am NOT doing it anytime soon is because I have a LOT of “other fires to put out”, as they say. I’m just chomping at the bit to try it but just don’t want to have to stop once I start until it’s either done or I have to clone again. :wink:

I never saw an option that said “Do you wish to upgrade or do a fresh install?” What program do you use to image a drive? All my versions of windows are legit and paid for. I wanted to just clone originally as I have a version of Office on my laptop that was purchased legit through my wife’s work on a program that is no longer offered. I don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars on a program that I use sparingly on this lap top. Also may as well state that I never took any computer training, I’ve only learned on my own, That’s why I may not word things correctly compared to professionals. I had to install Vista 1st as it is a full version and WD software works properly on it to unlock HD partition. Then I used one of my Win 8.1 Pro upgrade discs to install 8,1 Pro. Then downloaded free Win 10 to upgrade further. Is there a way to get Win 10 DVD for free or little cost? I think I can get an Office CD from a friend that he paid for and no longer uses but was trying to preserve the paid one I bought. But that seems hopeless at this point. Also by going the Vista route I’ve lost some drivers for hardware on laptop that windows can’t find as it’s “Unknown Base System Device” So I now have to put the 250 GGB clone back in to try and figure that out or clone that drive onto the WD Black again as I have the HD unlocked on WD Black drive now. All this happened because WD will not make unlock software compatible with win 10. My love for WD drives that I have been using since Win 3.1 and DOS days is fading fast.

Once you have upgraded a computer to Windows 10 via the free upgrade you’re done having to install any other version of Windows unless you make big hardware changes to that PC. Like a graphics card or main board. You can download from MS an iso file and burn it to a DVD and install Windows 10 from the Custom Install option that is presented when you boot from the installation DVD.

HERE is a link to MS image file (iso)

If you have upgraded the PC once from the icon in your taskbar then read and understand these instructions. You do not need the free upgrade you need the tool and the .iso file to make a DVD that will boot and install Windows 10.

Thanks flhthemi, I saw that last night and tried to that on this laptop. Did something wrong as it would not copy to a DVD, kept getting an error message. I’m assuming I can make this DVD on my desktop pc and bring it to the laptop and use on it to do a fresh install.

Yup any burner should work fine. Most times if you right click on the .iso file you’ll have an option to burn it. I have burnt them to rewritable DVDs and they worked just fine too.

There is also a free burning software imgburn you can download from http://download.imgburn.com/SetupImgBurn_2.5.8.0.exe

The offical site http://www.imgburn.com/

Handy piece of software to have.

I have it all working now with fresh install of Win10 on a fresh formatted SSD portion of drive. My MS Office even verified and installed. I guess they keep track even that far back :smile: Thanks a bunch for all your help and ideas.

Man! I LOVE a success story! :wink:

Cloning is one thing, clean system installation is another. If you use Windows 10 on a bootable DVD or a USB drive, you will be offered the option to perform clean installation if you boot the computer off of that. So don’t load any Windows that you may have installed on a HDD or SSD. Just boot from the prepped DVD or USB and select to do a custom installation. It will allow you to partition your drives and start a clean installation process.

Starting Windows installations from within an existing Windows instance that’s installed on the PC is often called an upgrade or in-place upgrade (because upgrade as an option is also selectable from a booted DVD or USB). It’s also a means to perform system repairs when Windows is not working properly.

That’s right, you should not be forced to pay for software you already have paid for. But unfortunately big software companies are not always as understanding, and they put in place very rigorous protection systems to fend off piracy, at the cost of user experience. The upgrade process in Windows based PCs can sometimes force users to pay for a new license if they forgot the license key, or they never got one because it was pre-activated from the manufacturer.

So the customer gets screwed in the upgrade process. I mean you’re doing the right thing in that you are trying to clone the drive that came with the PC. If it works that is… if it works it will preserve all your software licenses. If not, and you want to keep your license, you will have to somehow extract the license keys from the current installation before you move on doing a fresh and clean installation which will erase everything, including any pre-activated software such as Office.

The way Microsoft operates now is that they rely more on their activation servers than forcing users to keep track of their license keys for every piece of Microsoft software they might have purchased or received through the PC manufacturer. So if Microsoft servers can ID your PC when it connects to the Internet, it will get activated automatically. No keys needed. They may have a similar setup in place for latest Office versions.

I think you’re doing just fine! :slightly_smiling: You know, ultimately, we are all learners in life! Also! Bear in mind that we all learn on our own! What other kind of learning is there? You know I have always opposed this stupid idea of school learning vs. self-teaching. It suggests that it’s the school that puts the knowledge into our brains! So all we have to do, is be rich, go to a reputable school, and have them put the knowledge inside us and we are done. It doesn’t work like that! We have to do the hard work of teaching our selves! We have to be wanting it, we have to be eager to learn, and then go out there and learn it. I honestly believe that each of us is our own best teacher.

If you talk to these “professional” I think most of them will tell you that they are “self-taught”. As if there was another kind of teaching and learning… But seriously, most of them will tell you that they were nerdy and eager to learn things and had fun figuring things out when they were kids and teenagers. I know that most part of my understanding of computers comes from my own work and learning, maybe some 20% comes from the school courses. I mean it’s great to build up a good foundation and go to a good school and all that, but it’s really just a supplement. Besides, in this globalized, networked, Internet connected world, knowledge is all around us, and information is all around us. It’s very easy to pick up a thing or two and build up a fundamental knowledge of just about any subject. And you can even ask other people for help… as evidenced by this community forum and this very forum thread.

So… pick yourself up, and be proud of what you have learned and achieved so far! :slight_smile: You have gone a great length to solve this SSD problem, and that’s something you can be proud of. I’m sure you have learned a thing or two in the process. That’s how most of us learn, through problem solving and experience.

The DVD itself can be home made. What you need is the ISO image.

The way Microsoft has imagined for this process to work is something like this:

  1. The user downloads a software tool called Media Creation Tool.
  2. User runs this tool and makes selections like what language to use, what bitness or platform (x86 or AMD64/x64).
  3. The tool connects to Microsoft servers int he background and grabs the necessary files and downlaods them.
  4. The tool unpacks the files if necessary and then packs them all up into one bootable ISO file, or bruns it directly to a DVD (if that’s the option you selected).

URL: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

If you don’t want this tool to do the ISO building for you, and you just want the generic ISO file for Windows 10, you will have to rely upon a Mac OS X computer or a Linux system to grab the ISO file for you. The tool is prone to error, that’s why I highly recommend not using it. It’s better to get the generic ISO which are built internally by Microsoft, verified and distributed to MSDN subscribers and high income, volume license customers.

But Microsoft figured that it would not offer these download links to regular users and consumers. However, this is only true for those visiting the site on a Windows PC. Thereby, if you visit the same page using Mac OS X or Linux, you will be offered a different set of options. This is because they know that these users can’t run the Media Creation Tool EXE program on their machines natively. So it’s only those who mostly need Windows ISO files, namely Windows users, that get screwed around. This is something that should really be up to the user… whether or not they want the Media Creation Tool or the ISO download… but anyway, Microsoft does not seem to have the same idea.

I wish it was that simple. This is generally correct, except are not getting the ISO file directly from them. What you do is you download a tool called the Microsoft Media Creation Tool. You then run this tool, and this tool downloads the needed files, which may or may not be ISO files (I don’t know) which it unpacks and repacks to optimize it for your selections, such as what language versions you want to appear for you during installation and so on. So it’s not the generic, a la MSDN style ISO files. Now here’s the irony! If you are using a Windows PC to do this, then you will be presented with this “Media Creation Tool”. But if you’re using a Linux PC to do this, and you visit the same site, and same Microsoft page, you will be offered the option to get the generic, a la MSDN style ISO files for Windows 10.

It’s Microsoft’s way of “simplifying” things for us… I sometimes wonder how far they are willing to go with this mentality.

So you have to actually first download an ISO for a Linux distro, burn that and install it or run it directly from the DVD or USB, or whatever. Then go to Microsoft Windows 10 ISO download page and pick and choose your preferred platform and language and get your ISO files. This is what I have done actually. Because I wanted generic ISO files, not some jammed up crappy ISO file that the “Media Creation Tool” builds for me on the fly.

Why would you not want to use Media Creation Tool? Why you want a generic ISO file? Generic ISO file is better! Initially the Media Creation Tool had its own set of problems when Windows 10 went RTM. Just do some browsing around forums and you will find all kinds of problems related directly to the Media Creation Tool.

I think the error that Andy encountered while trying to make his bootable Windows 10 DVD might be an exhibition of the kind of Media Creation Tool problems I refer to.

This is the type of problem with Media Creation Tool I discussed earlier in this post. It’s prone to error. Even though they are updating it very often, some new bugs and glitches seem to come up all the time. This is why I prefer to use generic ISO files for Windows. It’s the way I have been doing Windows installations for the past 5 years or so.

You can try a different PC, or you can preferably use a Mac OS X or Linux machine to do it the right way. By visiting Microsoft website with one of these machines, their website will operate differently. It will offer you the options to download the generic ISO file.

If you don’t have a Mac, you can use a bootable Linux distro to pull down the proper, validated and 100% working ISO images from Microsoft. It’s not harder than booting Windows form a DVD. You just have to prep the DVD for Linux first. If you have never done this before, here’s a quick how-to.

  1. Go to http://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop and download one of the ISO file for 64-bit or 32-bit. Either one will work. I would suggest the version 14.04 LTS, 32 or 64 bit. You only need one ISO file.
  2. Go to https://rufus.akeo.ie/ and download the EXE file for version 2.6 or 2.7. You will use this to burn your ISO file.
  3. Get a blank USB flash drive. Backup any files you may have on it.
  4. Once downloaded, run the Rufus program, select the location of your ISO file and select to write it to your USB drive.
  5. Without taking out the USB flash drive, reboot the PC if it’s the same one or take it to your desired PC, preferably one in a working condition, and boot off of the USB drive. Check your manual if you don’t know how to boot from a USB drive. Or try F12 and get lucky… maybe.
  6. Once Ubuntu has booted, select to try it, don’t select to install.
  7. Start Firefox, and navigate to https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10. Your network should be enabled. If you have network problems, especially if it’s a WiFi problem, get a network cable and connect that way. Any good PC should have at least one Ethernet port.
  8. You will now be presented with a new set of options on the Microsoft page than what you have seen while on Windows. Make your selections and get the ISO files you need. Download them to the internal drive or to an external drive. You want to avoid using any Linux partitions because Windows can’t read them. The USB flash drive should be fine for this if it’s big enough, because it’s FAT formatted and Windows can read that.
  9. Boot back into Windows, and use the Rufus tool again to write your newly acquired Windows ISO file.
  10. Done! You now have a bootable USB drive with Windows 10.

You can use the same ISO file again to burn a Windows 10 DVD. But you will need a tool like ImgBurn for that, you can’t use Rufus for DVD burning. Any good DVD authoring software will do, such as Nero burning ROM or InfraRecoreder on Windows. Any Windows version newer than Windows 7 should also be able to burn ISO images to DVD disc.

A note about DVD vs. USB install media:
While USB flash drives are much faster to install from than DVD, the DVD disc is sometimes the only option if your PC can’t boot from USB devices. Booting from USB devices can also be disabled, and it’s also prone to BISO related bugs and errors, and Windows installer may protest about not finding the boot drive. So for a total disaster recovery, always have a DVD prepared as well. Don’t trust the USB drives alone for Windows installations.

Yes, as I discussed earlier in this post, Microsoft now defaults more and more to what they have on record on their servers about your software. They sure keep track of things nowadays… sometimes even more than what we wish for, with all the privacy concern in mind and everything. I guess some privacy loss is the price of convenience.

The way this probably worked for you is that you had your Windows and Office installed and activated while on Windows Vista, or whatever version you had. Then you upgraded all the way up to Windows 10. Once at 10, everything gets tracked down, including your entitlement to Windows itself, and any other software such as Office, and it is all tucked away on Microsoft servers. When you then do a clean installation and overwrite the old stuff, you can do it without providing the keys, and when you are connected to the Internet for the first time, all your software is checked against Microsoft servers and activated, including Office.

What an epic journey! Well done to all. I’m hoping to go down a very similar path to yours Andy, also based on an HP Pavilion. Please can you inform us if you are still a happy Win 10 + WD Black2 user after 3 months of updating.

Just to add a plea for some follow up on whether this is working, and hoping for a clear-ish guide to doing a full clean install of Windows 10 onto this drive…

Mine has now had several updates to Windows 10 and is still doing just fine…what else do you need-ish to know :wink: