My caviar green drive (WD10EARS, 1T, 64M) has a high LCC in a rather short time (known as 'C1 Gate").
I know that wdidle3 can be used to disable or change the idle time.
But I heard that if you use wdidle3 to modify the parameter, then the drive is no longer in warrant.
So [Q1] is the ‘lose warrant’ saying true?
(I tried other softwares to change AAM, but they seem incompatible with EARS.)
And I wanna ask [Q2] what is WD’s explanation toward ‘C1 Gate’?
The soaring C1 figure surely indicates that the lifespan of the magnetic head is greatly shorten. How can you assert it’s a feature rather than a flaw?
I have made contact with the customer service about this through e-mail and telephone. The e-mail got no reply. The hotline said he found no related data in his computer and hadn’t even heard of it!
btw As far as I know, the ‘C1 Gate’ influences most caviar green (e.g. AADS, AARS, EADS, EARS) and some caviar blue (BEVT) model that were produced this year. Some that were produced last year do not have this problem.
How do you get that firmware upgrade (wdidle3) to work with EARS series ? (that should only be possible if the ICs/circuitry is the same for both the WD10EARS and the below mentioned drives (know that WD1000FYPS has a smaller Cache but maybe that is no problem if the new firmware can cope with that))
So have you done (updated firmware WD10EARS with wdidle3) that and how did you do that ?
Quote from WD :
“”
This firmware modifies the behavior of the drive to wait longer before positioning the heads in their park position and turning off unnecessary electronics. This utility is designed to upgrade the firmware of the following hard drives: WD1000FYPS-01ZKB0, WD7500AYPS-01ZKB0, WD7501AYPS-01ZKB0.“”
Would sure love if that worked with WD10EADS also :)))
But any way quite sure you will loose your guaranty if you use it on other drives that the mentioned
My point was, as I can’t find an wdidle3 firmware update for the EARS series (or he EADS series as well )(But maybe i haven’t been looking the right place ? ) it was implied that he had to modify the above mentioned wdidle3 update to get it to work on EARS series and that would to my knowledge brick the warranty and only give the desired result, if the drive electronics is exatly the same circuit with the nessesary space in onboard RAM.
But just as DualportSRAM has mentioned above, wdidle3 doesn’t say it is designed for EARS,EADS, though I’m sure it works on these models. And it warns:
CAUTION: Do not attempt to run this software on any hard drives other than what is listed above.
I’ve seen lots of people recommending using wdidle3 to change the default idle time for EARS and haven’t seen anyone say it can’t. So I think It should work (under DOS commandline).
And I suppose wdidle3 is a modify tool rather than a firmware upgrade.
Not native English speaking too but in my understanding “Brick” means here to make the warranty obsolete, but maybe you get an official reply concerning the warranty and using the wdidle3 utility on drives it is “not officially” made for.
“”
And I suppose wdidle3 is a modify tool rather than a firmware upgrade. “”
Yes and no.
To change any drive parameter for good you have to write the parameter change to the hidden part on the drive disc where the firmware resides when drive is not powered.( not sure if that this is exactly how it is done but queues I am quite close in my assumptions)
If you use a utility to change the acoustic management of your drive the changes will be gone when you power the drive down (not guessing here)
My queues is the the firmware lies on a hidden part of the drive and is read into RAM when the drive is powered on, which means that any change must be written to this hidden area to be permanent.
Have you used wdidle3 on EADS with success ? :)))
Have 6 Pcs. WD10EADS so quite interested to hear if it could work w/o changing the drives model no or other stuff (especially the possibility to change TLER from off to on)
Cause suspect that the constant on/off loading of the head assembly when drive goes in to/out from lowpower/sleep is the main thing that causes these drives to fail.
But this is maybe solved by turning all green Sh** off in BIOS and in WIN7 64 Ultimate ?