So I just bought a brand new WD Blue SSD on Amazon, here is the link to the one I bought…
I bought it to add it into an external SSD enclosure to use with my laptop for extra storage, which here is the link to the one I bought…
The problem is, I don’t have a USB-C plug-in on my laptop, and the cord that that enclosure comes with is just USB-C to USB-C, it does not include a USB-C to USB-A. So because of this, I bought an adapter, USB-C Female to USB-A Male. I can post link in the comments because this won’t let me add more links
I put it all together successfully, formatted it, my laptop recognized it, all is well. Then I decided to do a speed test on it with CrystalDiskMark, and it was pathetic. Here is that test…
Compared to my laptop’s SSD that it came with test…
I am thinking it may be because of the adapter that I had to purchase. I wonder if there is a USB-A to USB-C cord that I can safely use for this enclosure? Or is it even an issue with the adapter? I don’t want to have to purchase a whole new enclosure, but if it comes to that, I will take suggestions. Please help! I was super excited about this, I thought it was going to be such a great upgrade, and it is such a bummer that it is not working how it should be.
I just tried using a random USB-A to USB-C cable we had lying around the house, instead of the adapter with the USB-C to USB-C that came with the enclosure, and I got about the same results
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We are getting VERY similar (~40MB/s) results here, with the WD Blue 500MB ATA version WDS500G2B0A.
We tried 3 different adapters (Oyen, Sabrent, Orico) using their supplied USB3 cables, connected directly to USB3 port of Mac Mini 2012 running Mojave OS.
Same issue with both WD Blue that we bought in last 2 weeks. Tried 3 different Mac speed-test programs. Even old “My Book for Mac” WD external drive with 7200rpm spinning disk gets around 100 MB/s on same computer.
Do you have a multimeter laying around that you can use? One issue that i have noticed with many USB C to USB 3 adapters, especially the ones on ebay, is that while they will have a USB 3.0 connector on one end and and USB-C connector on the other end, inside of the connector, only enough pins for USB 2.0 will actually be wired and the rest of the solder pads will have nothing connecting them, thus they look like USB 3 but are electrically USB 2.0.
Another way to check, is to use a program like hardware info. Free Download HWiNFO Sofware | Installer & Portable for Windows, DOS (I recommend the portable version via the download button over the white background.
then look for the device under the USB section.
This will allow you to see the rate that it is actually connected at.
For example, when a USB 3 drive is connected to a USB 2.0 interface.