My New Dell Mini PC and Apple's Airport Extreme

This post was typed on my new Dell Mini PC, Windows 10, 2GB memory, 32GB SDD and I bought a 64GB SanDisk SDXC card for only $30, to compliment my available space. I was amazed that I even got 80MB/s read/writes off the SDXC card.

This tiny 5 inch x 5 inch pc will be used to record live video of my home from my tp-link cams when I’m away from home. Hopefully with the AC Wifi speeds, all I need is a power plug and leaving it sitting on the bookshelf ; remote logging into the PC when needed.

Now the reason that I’m posting is that I’m very surprised at the AC wifi compatibility with Apple’s Airport Extreme. After a quick connection by selecting my Wifi and entering the password, I got read/write speeds of 30MB/s to the My Cloud. With my previous DLink AC1200, this was not possible. In fact the Dlink router made you choose either the 2.4Ghz or the 5Ghz when selecting the wifi and the max speed was always 11MB/s for both the Mac and PC; 8MB/s when the 2.4GHz band was chosen.

The Dlink configuration panel allowed you to play with both the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz setup where-as the Airport Extreme does not. Both channels are hidden from the user of which only the Wifi name is selectable.

Although I never will be going back to playing with my Dlink AC1200 router, I am perplexed at the setup complexity and wondered what I did wrong. Is this true for all AC router setups?

Let me know.

So I meant to say that the setup of the Airport Extreme was extremely simple with both the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz setup hidden from the initial setup panels, although I they are accessible under deeper menus.

With the Airport Extreme running as it is, I don’t even have to choose which wifi spectrum to use as anything I add to my Wifi it automatically sets itself up. Thus I get AC wifi speeds as it should be. Just as a side note, all my TP-Link cameras operates on the 2.4GHz wifi spectrum and I had to force the selection of the 2.4 wifi band when I was using the Dlink router, where-as the selection of the 2.4ghz was automatic with the Airport Extreme.

Which brings me back to the first post at which the question is, did I setup my old dlink AC1200 incorrectly? I did not change much from the initial default values of the router but as I said in another post, the dlink ac1200 made me believe that all AC Wifi routers were a sham until I bought the Airport Extreme.

With the Dell mini PC connecting to my Apple’s AC Wifi, it shows that AC Wifi has become a standard that both PC and macs are enjoying.

My question is, is this true of other AC wifi routers? Did I just get a bad Dlink AC1200 router?

Hi, I do not own an AC router (Yet), however reading your findings while using the airport extreme have made slow down on the TP-Link AC3200 that I was planning on getting and maybe going with the apple airport extreme given that they roughly the same price on Amazon.

Sounds good to me :stuck_out_tongue:

I really hate to be an Apple advocate but I moved from the PC world in 2010 to Mac and over the last 6 years, the Apple garden world is a delight. Just like the Airport Extreme and Airport express, it takes only minutes to set up instead of hours.

it is coming up 2 days for my Dell Mini PC and I’ve found so far, no remote desktop on home edition (a day of configuring to find that out through the internet instead of microsoft telling us “Sorry no remote desktop with home edition”), mcafee virus scans, window defender scans, for goodness sakes these scans takes up half the resources of the PC.A (for 6 years I ran no scans on Mac).

Yup I spent more than 6 hours trying to figure out my AC Wifi setup on the Dlink AC1200; although it just could be me.

Having recently bought an office 2016 licence through their home use programme, connecting outlook to my email account was very painful, compared with the “it just works” experiences of iOS and Android mail tools.

Recent Windows 8.1 tablet acquisition: Update refused to work. Lots of Google hits on the subject. Almost silence from Microsoft, when this problem has been ongoing for years. Touch interface lacks left button mouse mimic. On-screen keyboard doesn’t automatically pop up. ‘Help’ doesn’t. etc.

Sometimes, I think Sheldon Cooper may have had a point: “Maybe if you weren’t so distracted by sick children in Africa, you could’ve put a little more thought into Windows [8]”…

It has been 4 long days to configure windows 10 to become a security cam PC recorder. For every step I took, Windows fought back making me search the internet high and low for hacks.

  • No remote desktop on the home edition of windows 10 requiring a hack to run 3rd party rdp server
  • testing wake on lan. didn’t want to use magic key to start up the lan which resulted in after Remote Desktop’ing into the device it won’t go back to sleep; thus it never sleeps now even though sleep is enabled.
  • found a hack to force the pc back to sleep but still wakes up to any lan signals.
  • iSpy software to record all cameras, took hours to find the right configuration for the tp-link cams
  • broke the power adapter by trying to use the right-angle adapter that I bought from ebay (wrong size, bent the pin), went to best buy and they exchanged the adapter for free, thankfully.
  • set ethernet, wifi to metered connection to prevent automatic updates except I cannot even update manually.
  • turned off window defender except it says that it would turn it back on if turned off (the very same programmers moved to WD insisting that scans should always be turned on).
  • turned off firewall since pc is local only, turned off the whinning that firewall is off

The recording software is always on even when I turn off the cameras via a smart plug. When I turn on the smart plugs which in turn, turns on the cameras, the recording software automatically links to the cameras and the recording continues. Thus this gives me local recording rather than some cloud server that holds my video for ransom.

You can see it on my bookshelf, the black box. Records everything to a 64GB SDXC card. To view the recorded files, I just map the SD card to my mac. In fact this little mini PC can be set up as a NAS by connecting a series of USB 3.0 drives to it, but that is another project for another day; perhaps when I’m tired of the two 8tb clouds.

I haven’t tested all routers, but i don’t think that is normal. I get 36/22 read/write and that sitting 2 rooms away, and i have netgear WNDR3700v4 dual band. So maybe you had a dud or misconfigured somehow. However, these are usually nothing to configure, just plug and go. Of course you have to choose the SSD and connect with password.

Does your netgear have two network names? like my Dlink had dlink-E884 and dlink-E884-5mhz. So all the low end wifi like the cameras would go on the dlink-e884 it is the 2.4mhz. line and the other 5hz.

On my new Apple Extreme, I only have one network name even though it is dual band.

You can configure either or both. I have both, 2.4Ghz for guests and slow machines b,g,n, and 5Ghz for compatible AC wifi for private and elite users :slight_smile: . Each will have different SSD names and passwords.

well… from what I mentally visualize, there really isn’t any other options that I could have configured incorrectly so therefore It has to be a bad router; mine was exactly as you have yours configured. Next time I will know better now that I had had the experience. Only $42 wasted.

Thanks for the feedback.

still Airport Extreme is pretty good and reliable.

agreed, only regret is that I should have done this sooner…