WD 240GB Green SSD failed

Hello. I bought 240 WD 240 GB Green SSDs. I replaced the HDDs where I work with these SSDs. I installed it in the first months of 2023. After a few months, mass malfunctions began to occur. Bios not detecting SSD. Windows and WD Dashboard do not recognize the SSD when I connect it via the external port. So far, 48 SSDs have failed. It continues to malfunction. I created an RMA record for the faulty ones and had them replaced. Most likely they will all fail. The service does not provide information as to why it malfunctioned. How will I trust and store data on this SSD? All SSDs will fail.
SSD Serial number: 221XXXXXXXXXX Production Dates: Between April 13, 2022 - April 21, 2022.
Their warranty is still valid. However, WD Türkiye distributor does not accept bulk replacement. What would you recommend me to do?

What is the exact model number?

MDL Number: WDS240G3G0A-00BJG0

I see lots of reports of failures in other models, but not yours. WD/SanDisk seems to be making junk these days. It’s probably safest to avoid these brands until they sort out their problems.

That said, I don’t have an answer for your predicament. :frowning:

If you can open up one of your faulty SSDs (warranty issues notwithstanding), we could try to determine the failure mode, either hardware or firmware.

In the 2020s, I installed many WD Blue, WD Green, Sandisk Ultra 2 SSD products. None of them failed.
All products in the 2022 production series have problems. I will stay away from WD products from now on.
Of course, I can boot a faulty SSD. If we can determine the type of fault, maybe we can take precautions.


Can you measure the voltages between ground (any screw hole) and each of the 3 inductors (L1, L2, L3) surrounding the PMIC (U4)? Or measure the voltages at the neighbouring capacitors?

The PMIC is a common point of failure in other models, usually due to bad soldering.

I measured. I wrote the values. I wonder if it’s normal?
How do I know if it’s PMIC cold soldering?

The 0.95V supply is consistent with the controller’s Vcore.

The NAND VCC and VCCQ supplies are probably 2.7V and 1.2V, respectively.

They seem OK to me, so I suspect that the firmware may have “panicked” due to bad NAND.

That said, when the firmware panics, the drive usually identifies itself as “Sandisk Milpitas”.

I’m not 100% certain, but I suspect that the two pads at JP1 (adjacent to NAND) are the “ROM mode” shorting points. If so, you should be able to enter ROM mode by shorting these pads with tweezers during power on, and then releasing the short soon after. The drive should then identify itself as “Sandisk Milpitas”. This will prove that the controller has basic sanity. However, you should only try this if you are willing to accept my guess that these are the correct shorting points.

If you measure the voltages at these pads, I think you will find that one is grounded and the other is pulled up to VCCQ via a resistor. Other SanDisk SSDs use the NAND’s Ready/*Busy pin as a shorting point. I suspect that yours does likewise.

Would it be beneficial if I updated all the SSD firmware I am using?
I reserved some SSDs because they were defective. When I reconnected it a few days later, I saw that it was fixed and working. I saw 3-4 products like this. Does that mean he’s panicked?
I short-circuited JP1 pins, I did not see any change. How can I see if it has entered ROM mode?
I measured the voltage between these two pads. I saw it as 1.1V. Likewise, I measured the voltage between the resistors as 1.1 V. It shows offline in disk manager.
When I try to initialize the disk I get this error: “The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error.”
WD-1
The SSD model looks like this.

Sometimes a drive will remain busy while it is trying to repair corrupt firmware components, eg a Flash Translation Layer that was damaged by an improper shutdown.

In such cases Crucial recommends the following approach for their drives:

https://www.crucial.com/support/articles-faq-ssd/why-did-ssd-disappear-from-system

I suspect that is the reason that several of your dead drives came back to life.

As for “ROM mode”, your screenshot appears to be showing a USB-connected device. I don’t know if you can see “Sandisk Milpitas” for this type of connection.

I have seen some SSD products take hours for the logic to check the blocks and update the tables