Plugged 19V into 8tb WD MyBook WD80EZAZ after moving.
Drive does not spin up when connected to Sata. I’m assuming the data is there but just need to get it to read.
Read about removing a TVS diode but need help locating it and getting some addition resources on what might be needed before coughing up the big bucks.
I have a second larger board that I ordered and tried to swap them to no avail. PC doesn’t spin the drive up when connected to that one either
Fzabkar, any idea? Anyone else? Much appreciated!
@fzabkar
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Better photo of the board
Measure the 12V TVS diode (Z4 ?) and associated fuse (“s” ?). The fuse will most likely be open. You should replace it with a 4A type, or you could risk bridging it with a blob of solder. Your choice.
If the 12V diode is shorted, just snip it. The drive will work without it, albeit without protection. A suitable replacement would be SMBJ12A or SMCJ12A (depending on size).
The plot thickens. I had taken the original board into a local shop at it looks like they have already shipped the TVS. As shown in red. But it’s still not spinning when connected to SATA. I didn’t know they actually did anything until looking at it right now
Power Disable Feature
https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/western-digital/collateral/tech-brief/tech-brief-western-digital-power-disable-pin.pdf
… if you put a new SATA HDD with this feature into a legacy chassis or enclosure, the drive may not spin up! The HDD is not defective. Some legacy power supplies provide 3.3V power on P3 (Pin 3), and this forces the HDD to get stuck in a hard reset condition preventing the HDD from spinning up.
The solution is to disable power pin #3.
Tried using tape like shown here. Referenced a few videos showing covering pins 1, 2, and 3. It did not work. Should I use Kaplon tape and ONLY cover pin 3 or purchase a SATA to Molex adapter and try that?
Should I be using the board that still has the TVS diode installed?
Read my first post again.
Which shop worked on your PCB? They don’t appear to be competent.
Local place called Chipheads. Came well reviewed. They recommended OnTrack after they were unsuccessful.
I’ve been referencing an old post you made on HDD guru. Only thing I haven’t done is replace the fuses. It looks like the shop snipped the TVS diode from my original board. But using that board, the HDD won’t spin up. Even with pin 3 covered. Which would point me towards the fuses being bad?
This is the post of yours I’ve been referencing:
I appreciate the help you were able to provide. Feels like I’m close. Just need to figure out the next step
I don’t understand what you need to figure out? Measure the fuse. If it’s open, replace it if you can, or bridge it by flowing a blob of solder over it, if you can accept the risk.
If Chipheads couldn’t do this, then they’re incompetent.
As a test to see if I could just get the thing spinning I tested the fuses on the second PCB that was untouched and they both appeared to be good. So I snipped the TVS Diode off of the board. Covered the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd pins. Then plugged it into SATA and it spun up. Disk Utility is not recognizing the drive at the moment but it is spinning. Also not showing in BIOS. Should I attempt to do the same thing without the pins covered or does the board know its not the original and I need to try the solder glob over the fuse on the original PCB?
The drive is encrypted by the USB-SATA bridge PCB. You need to reinstall the drive in the My Book enclosure.
Plugged it in with the second PCB with the TVS diode snipped. Found as unallocated in disk management. Do I need to initialize? If so what type of partition? Or do I need to data recovery first with EaseUS or something
Yes, you MUST use the original PCB (because its ROM contains unique, drive specific parameters).
“Adaptives” – why PCB swaps don’t work in modern HDDs:
https://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?p=19090#p19090
Got it. I’ll get the solder out and update. I noticed that shop also snipped another fuse or diode or something highlighted in blue. It was originally something that looked like the green highlighted section. Think that needs solder, nothing, or get the piece replaced?
Leave the diodes as they are. It doesn’t matter whether they are installed or not.
Before you do anything, tell us which part you think is the fuse?
Is my incompetence showing lol. Yes I’m figuring it out still. I have continuity from the first three pins to the left side of the fuse marked with an “O”. I do not have continuity when I go to the right side of the fuse marked with “X”. That’s where the solder is going. The large blue rectangle was the TVS diode which I won’t solder and the small blue rectangle that got removed by the shop I’m not sure what it was but I’m not putting solder there either
Yes, that’s the fuse. Good luck.
We’re dumping files. You’re a legend. If there’s a way to DM me a venmo or something I’d love to repay you in some way. Cheers mate. I hope some good karma is coming your way.
