@TechFlaws: Streaming sub problems is what I’m referring to. Sorry if I didn’t make that clear. Using attached storage, .srt’s usually work fine.
@mike27: Uh, Google don’t lie bro. Neither do the forum users here. Do the search. Lots of results like this one:
Windows Share doesn’t work for many / most and, yeah, it’s a pain at best. Works for some, definitely doesn’t work for others depending on your set-up. Or maybe WD does those firmware updates just for fun, lol. And no, I’m not editing my registry just to watch movies. Install a media server. Problem solved. Funny how in that thread most users ended up installing a media server or buying/building a NAS or HTPC after wasting hours or days. But you obviously missed the larger point. Yeah, the WDTV made sense 2-3 years ago (when I bought mine, thank you), but not now. Sure, if it worked flawlessly it might be. But the Windows Shares is just the tip of the iceberg. Subtitles over network stream? Maybe, sometimes. MLB Network? Ouch…don’t even get me started. Reliable streaming? Your WDTV has never frozen or crashed? Stand proud and stand alone, amigo. Guess you better read more forum posts here. That’s what most of the posts are about. The very basic functionality of a WDTV can be had in a $200 tablet now…or for most, your phone. Things that most of us already have. 2 years ago most of these things could not do what WDTV does, certainly not at the cheap price point they are today. Snagged an Asus TF300T for $200, hook up via HDMI and it blows the WDTV away. No crash, no freeze, subtitles, plays more formats, and way faster.
You missed the point, dude. For the “noobies” researching this device (or a Roku or any of these cheapo boxes) your $60-$90 is better spent putting your hard earned $$$ towards a real HTPC solution. Will you spend a little more? Yeah. Probably $300 - $600. Subtract the $80 wasted on a cheapo media box and that cost comes down to $220 - $520. Taking the cheapskate route? Get you a cheap tablet for just a little more than a WDTV without all the wasted time. You won’t waste hours unplugging / replugging your WDTV, reconnecting, etc. All the stuff you can just read here on the forums. And you will be able to BROWSE THE WEB and play the content you find there. And that’s not noob advice. Been using my WDTV for over 2 years. Use it with attached storage for best results. And Netflix. Want to watch internet streaming content? Forget it. Build an HTPC now…or be a cheapskate like I was, blow $80 on a WDTV or Roku, and after having your movie freeze at just the wrong time for the umpteenth time and unplug and replug, all the stuff we have all dealt with, THEN break down and build your HTPC and chalk the $80 wasted on WDTV or Roku to “learning experience.” With onboard video capabilities of CPU (Sandy, Ivy) power draw of an HTPC is now negligible, and that was the only real advantage WDTV ever had.
Still using my WDTV for Shoutcast and Netflix. Reliable for that…and that’s about it. That’s sage advice from an experienced owner of a WDTV and a HTPC. Build the HTPC now…or build it later. The choice is yours. If you’re happy with your choice, cheers. I’m happy with mine.
