WD10EARS undetected - temporarily fixed with unusual method

Hello everyone,

It so happened that my WD10EARS ( still under warranty ) went undetected in the BIOS. I was annoyed as it’s been hardly 6 months since I bought it and was used with extreme care. Anyways I started to search for it’s warranty papers and soon found out that they had been lost. I was really angry at myself for being so clumsy and stupid.

Then I started doing tricks with the drive by putting it under the sun for a day and then in the deep freezer. None of these worked.

Then, just by chance, it so happened that I thought I have nothing to lose as it’s going to go to a repairman soon, I’ll just try another trick by pushing hard on it’s PCB. I touched my hand with metal (to minimize ESD) and then applied some pressure on the back of the hard disk where the PCB is. I did this evenly across all of the PCB and also that 4-wire-thing which goes to the middle of the drive. After that I wanted to give it a try and voila, it was detected and booted up okay with everything intact.

Now the thing is, that this only works for about a week or so and then the drive goes undetected again and I have to do this trick again to get it fixed.

Yeah, sounds like you have a break in either the board or the wiring. Pressing on it temporarily lines up the wires or circuitry or connectors and then over time it separates again. Definitely copy all the data off your old drive onto a new drive. You don’t need any papers to send the drive back to WD. Just follow this link to send it back and get a new one mailed out to you. https://westerndigital.secure.force.com/?lang=en

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Other than dry solder joints or similar problems, there may be oxidisation on the preamp contacts on the other side of the PCB. I believe this is a consequence of materials changes mandated by RoHS.

If you remove the board you will see a 20-pin preamp/VCM connector on the HDA. Use a soft white pencil eraser to gently clean the corresponding contacts on the PCB.

Look for something like these:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/WD5000BEVT_Preamp_VCM.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/WD200BB-Preamp.jpg

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*UPDATE* :

Thanks for the useful replies.

This method no longer works. Now in search of a Torx Screwdriver.

did you do a backup of the data when the drive started to work again?

*UPDATE 2*

Cleaned the pre-amp as told by ‘fzabkar’ and it’s working again now with all data intact.

Going to back it all up now.

I have done this too :   http://www.ngohq.com/news/19805-critical-design-flaw-found-in-wd-caviar-green-hdds.html 

This is getting really annoying as after 1 week of normal operation, the cleaning procedure has to be done again as it again goes undetected after suffering I/O errors while in Windows.

*UPDATE 3*

Even after cleaning it with rubber THOROUGHLY, nothing is being detected now. It seems that the board has to be replaced. It sure was a mistake buying this drive, and I would recommend everyone to look for reliable alternatives such as Hitachi or Seagate.

*UPDATE 4*

After leaving the controller card in a bucket of water + washing soda for 2 or more days, cleaning it with an old toothbrush, washing it with normal water, then drying it under the sun, it is working again. Such a nuisance.

Could it be that the simple act of removing the drive, moving it around, and replacing it is the temporary fix? Might sound strange, but I have a theory that a drive that I worked on is that way. VERY similar conditions and solutions tried with somewhat similar results. In my case, it worked for a few minutes to a very few hours, rather than a week. My goal was only to extract the information onto a replacement drive so it took me a couple of weeks to get most of it done.

Since EVERYTHING that I tried SOMETIMES worked and sometimes didn’t, I theorized that the physical movement that happened while I was trying to fix this and that was the real cause of the temporary fix. I tested that theory and it did seem to be correct. Since everything was so random, I can’t conclusively say anything, but it sure seems to be correct.

I did replace the board with another from a known good drive and that did not affect the situation even a little bit. That eliminated the board from the list of possible causes.

Try it, you have nothing to lose.

As far as other brands being more reliable…I do a lot of computer repair work and I have found no other brand that is more reliable. Over many years, I have seen bad runs with every brand. I have also seen bad individual units with every brand. If I could find one that was more reliable, I would switch to it, but I have not seen any that are better. The same applies, to an extent, with different models of a given brand. I hoped the black edition would be better, but I have not found it to be enough better that I’m happy. ALL HARD DRIVES FAIL, it is not a matter of if, but of when.

Sorry to ask this, but why would you even try to keep using that drive when it has proven itself to be unreliable? That’s none of my business, but I’m curious.

That trick did it for my WD10EARS too. WD is really dropping QC aren’t they?

You’re right here " ALL HARD DRIVES FAIL, it is not a matter of if, but of when. "

The same can be said for “ALL ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS”

But failing within about 3 or 4 months of use, that’s what has annoyed me so much. I have been running this Samsung spinpoint for years and it has suffered a lot of load-sheddings, low voltages etc. but still going strong and hasn’t failed me.

“but why would you even try to keep using that drive when it has proven itself to be unreliable? That’s none of my business, but I’m curious.”

Well I can’t just throw it away. Maybe I should sell it but it would fetch less than half it’s price.

Although it has acquired dust but it still kinda, looks new.

Agree. Even further, pretty much everything eventually breaks, the only question is when.

I have put a lot of drives in a lot of personal computers over the last almost 30 years. I have seen many cases where a particular model of drive will have a failure rate approaching 100% at some astonishly similar ages. Several of the models had that happen within the one year warranty over the years. A couple of those were Maxtor, now owned by Seagate. Others were the actual Seagate brand, but also Hitachi and evan a couple of brands that no longer exist and I don’t recall their names.

For a while I worked in a store that did builds and the owner was always looking for the cheapest parts around. We seldom had the same model or even brand of anything for more that a few months. By then, the price of what we had went up and someone else had a cheaper model that we switched to. Because of that, I saw a lot of different brands and models. There was no one brand or model that was enough more reliable to standardize on it. We did standardize on a motherboard brand, but that was only because our warranty costs dropped like a rock when we switched to that brand. Funny, they are not even in business now.

The problem with one Maxtor model was that it wouldn’t work, period. They finally admitted that it was a known incompatibility with certain controller chips. They kept giving me fixes for weeks. None of them helped and I finally put those drives into machines with a different controller and never bought another of that model.

I specifically remember a group of Western Digital 1TB Black series that all failed about the same time period. The reason that I remember these is because of the horible time I had with tech support. First, the techs said they have never heard of the Black series and thought I was referring to the color of the drive, not the series name. That was very frightening since they didn’t even know their product line and wouldn’t research it to find out.

Another aspect of it was when I checked the warranty online and saw that it was three years, not the five that is advertised. None of the techs that I talked to would even acknowledge the five years, even though it was stated on the web site. Among other things, they absolutely insisted that I send them a photo of the drive. Since WDC policy is that the warranty period starts at the manufacture date OR the proven purchase date. Apparently they didn’t believe the model number that I was reading to them over the phone. Perhaps I am too stupid to be able to read a series of letters and numbers. Apparently I have gotten smarter than that now since I’m writing this :slight_smile:

It turns out that some of that model of drive had been part of a stolen shipment. Apparently it is okay to reduce the warranty on stolen drives? I bought my drives from a reputable and authorized national distributer so I knew they were not stolen, but why the warranty issue. It would have made sense if they were trying to find out who stole them, but they said they didn’t care, it was JUST a warranty issue.

We talked, no, argued for hours about it and they finally had to restore the full five years of warranty. My point is just that all manufacturers have problems.

My question about using the drive was really why not just extract the data and send the drive in for warranty since it is only a few months old. Once a drive has failed as badly as yours did, you can never trust it to be reliable.

TheDutchOwner:

TheDutchOwner wrote:

That trick did it for my WD10EARS too. WD is really dropping QC aren’t they?

which trick are you referring to that worked for you? How old was the drive when it failed and how long has it been working since that fixed it? Thanks.

Same drive and same problems here…

3 diff cables… (some with metal clips and soem with out)

cleaned mobo with 99% iso

reinstall drives millions of times and the problem goes away

and roars back after a while seemingly randomly with long or short breaks of time.

this is the worst drive i ever bought in my life !

its been a nightmare since day one. (been a year roughly)