Hi well I dont think they are anywhere near ssd prices example a Intel 320 Series 600GB 2.5" SATA2 3Gb/s Solid State Drive goes for 1,149.99 $. A 600 gig raptor is 229.0 $. Sure if you want a small ssd then install all your games to a 7200 rpm drive and get 7200 rpm speeds when you play a game I guess there ok. I am not saying they are garbage but when prices come down and they get things sorted I will sure get one. As for some brands being bad I think they are all having problems right now, Corsair there great they will send you a none working drive and then expect you to send it back to try and get a good one, they have 2 return centers one in the usa and one in nl and dont expect a fast turn around time. When one of my wd raptors went I did a advanced rma had the new drive in 3 days they gave me 30 days to send the old one back. Sorry for the rant but I see so many probs with the ssd and there is no way I would put one in a customers system unless they where pc friendly so they could keep it up.
Intel SSDs are expensive (I don’t know why); a Crucial 512GB is $609. (Both SSDs use the same Marvell controller but the Crucial has twice the cache.)
I can’t find a 600GB Raptor for under $299. ($0.50/GB)
64GB SSD ($109) + 2TB Black ($220) + Z68 caching = effectively a 2TB SSD. Don’t have a Z68 chipset? Use Junctions to move the games you currently play over to your SSD. ($0.15/GB, $0.23/GB for 1TB Black instead ($140)).
My games alone wouldn’t fit on a 600GB drive but they do on the 2TB and they run instantly. A 128GB SSD lets me install windows/some programs on the SSD for a boot-to-idle-desktop time shorter than my POST time.
The problems you’ve no doubt heard about are from a particular SandForce controller (22xx) frequently found in off-brands/unproven brands. SSDs aren’t any less reliable than HDDs (there was a study done in France, I think) and when an SSD fails, its memory is still readable for up to a year–not so for HDDs.
Currently, and why I got on this forum, is that I am testing 10 WD Blues with 12k-40k hours; three had to go to the trash and its looking like three more are headed there. Two are good and the last two I couldn’t trust to a client/important machine. HDDs aren’t without their rash of problems.
My point is to look at value and the writing on the wall.
Currently, and why I got on this forum, is that I am testing 10 WD Blues with 12k-40k hours; three had to go to the trash and its looking like three more are headed there. Two are good and the last two I couldn’t trust to a client/important machine. HDDs aren’t without their rash of problems.
My point is to look at value and the writing on the wall.
If you’re trying to use caviar blues in a commercial raid environment, then you will have problems. they are not designed for 24/7, constant data access use. Figure they’re good for 8 hours a day, 365 days a year, for three years. That’s 8,760 hours. you’re already outside their usage specs.
If you’re trying to use caviar blues in a commercial raid environment, then you will have problems. they are not designed for 24/7, constant data access use. Figure they’re good for 8 hours a day, 365 days a year, for three years. That’s 8,760 hours. you’re already outside their usage specs.
They aren’t in a commercial raid environment; they are in my home computers. If I’d figure they’d only be good for 9k hours, I never would have purchased them. How did you “figure” this when they are rated at 50K power cycles and 1.2M hours?
In 30+ years, I’ve never had a Seagate fail, beginning with my first, a 10 Meg abyte MFM drive, let alone after 9k hours.
I don’t have any inside scoop. I was just figuring based on average home use, but everyday for 3 years (drive warranty if I’m correct). I also have seagates and wd drives that I’ve used for probably 8 years. also, wd no longer rates its drives, except for the RE drives.