Trick to making the default WD TV Live do 1080i composite

About once a day my WD TV live seems to get something stuck in it’s craw, and slows down to the point of not being usable. At that point if I try to copy a file through windows sharing I get a permissions error, and so suspect that it’s having fun dealing with the 2TB WD drive it’s attached to (I’ve turned off the Media Library option).

If I then do “Reset to Factory Settings”, everything repairs itself - except of course that I lose my network settings and my YouTube Account info, etc.

I wouldn’t even mind all that, except that the TV I attach it to only supports Component at 480i and 1080i. I can’t seem to figure out a way to get the WD TV Live to do that except to take it upstairs to my other TV which supports more Component options, set it up there, then disconnect and take back downstairs. Since the downstairs TV is a 52" model, having to go behind it a couple times a day is a major PITA.

Is there someway once the WD TV Live has been reset to tell it to go to Component output at 480i or 1080i? The TV is so old it doesn’t have HDMI, so that’s not an option. Maybe some number of hits of the reset switch, or length of time, or… ?


Keep the composite cable connected to the same TV. Once you start you will get the signal by default via composite. Set the WDTV live for component and apply the settings. Why this is happening in first place forcing you to reset is a mystery to me too.

The problem there is that you use the Red and White of the Composite to give you the audio for the Component. So I would still have to roll the TV out, move that cable, set things up, switch the cable back, and continue. That saves me going up and down the stairs, but is still a major pain. Don’t suppose there’s a way to buy an extra set of the cables and power supply so I could leave a set plugged into each and just move the box?

As for “why” it’s happening - based on all the stuff I’ve seen here and other forums, I suspect there is something in Windows networking that is not playing nice with the underlying Samba shares I gather that the WD TV Live is using (when I start getting “security” issues I can see that the disk is owned by Root which implies a Linux infrastructure). I’d be interested in whether reformatting my 2TB WD drive using ext3 would get around that since it was initially connected to another computer and is currently formatted with NTFS. What do you think?

Suggest keep the audio red & white with component only. Use only the yellow composite RCA connected to TV on the composite side.  For setting the video format you wont need the audio jacks. Once changed to component apply and you will have audio already connected to the component.

On why, your probable reformatting looks no connection to this reset problems. Are you using RAID in the drive. Sometmes raid 1 can cause this slowness in the drive.

Try all options before reformatting.

Not using RAID on the drive that I know of. It’s one of y’alls WD MyBook 2TB drives that I believe is a single drive inside.

As for the cable, I can’t stretch just the yellow part of the cable over to where the composite inputs are without unplugging the whole cable. As such I’d still have to move the TV, etc.

Thanks anyway,


You can extend the yellow connector with a cheap composite cable and a female RCA coupler (less than a dollar from Radio Shack).

OK, that makes sense!

Let me try it tonight and see how that works!

For anyone who cares, a combination of two things have made life a little simpler.

First, I’ve been able to trace my daily freezes to using the Trial version of PlayOn. Evidently about once a day it was trying to flash up a reminder to register, and that was causing the TV Live to freeze. I’ve turned off PlayOn and had no problems for two days. I’ll have to decide whether or not it’s worth $40 for the full version. Can anyone comment on whether they’ve had similar issues with the paid? Maybe I should be looking at TVersity Pro instead?

The other part of the solution was a suggestion from someone to get a patch cable to extend the unused video (yellow) plug from the second cable into a regular RCA composite setup, and then if I do have to reset I can do on there from the default state.

Hope this helps anyone else with similar problems.