Tip: Don't use HDMI (Auto) for the best display


#1

Folks,

I just got a new Panny 4000U HD projector (truly a superb piece of kit) and after setting it up I ran one of my MKV files from Handbrake into it.  At first I wasn’t super impressed with the image, but I kept feeling there was something wrong so I played a reference blu-ray and the difference was apparent (and drastic).

Investigating I found out that leaving the Live at HDMI(Auto) (where it picks the resolution and color space) was the culprit.  Setting it for 1080p 60Hz and High Color solved the problem.

There is some handshaking that goes on in HDMI, but in this case my projector (which was receiving output from my AV Receiver) and the Live were obviously not communicating properly.  My own advice after this – don’t rely upon the auto mode of HDMI unless you either aren’t sure of your device or your device will be changing output.  Set it for the correct output and high color space and the output will be MUCH improved (it was the difference between mediocre and stupendous).


#2

Where do you find the High color space setting? Is it RGB/YPbPr? (I suppose you don’t mean 12 bit)

Cocovanna


#3

It’s the selection after you selection resolution – select High RGB (assuming you’re using NTSC sources – folks in Pal countries might want to try yPbPf although, to be fair, there is a lot of confusion/controversy about which space to use for HDTV, and not just with the Live).

I would have assumed “auto” would have worked properly, but it makes a *terrible* colorspace choice – I’m not sure what it’s doing per se, but it looks to me like the gamma is shot.  It’s not nearly as noticiable when I play stuff on my Samsung LED (which, to be fair, has such an incredible contrast ratio that it probably overcomes any crummy color space choice) but on my projector it’s night and day (at least my new one – I’m not going to set my old one back up to compare).

12 bit HDMI is a whole different beast – currently there are no sources (commercial ones, at least) that are encoded 12 bit, so it really doesn’t matter if you choose this or not (so I would leave it at the 8 bit default) and my guess is that we won’t see any in my lifetime (but my lieftime is short – YMMV :>)


#4

I actually used to run mine in HDMI (Auto) with 12-bit Deep Color and was pretty happy with the results.  :D

Trying it with 1080p/60Hz and High RGB now… not really sure there’s any difference (pretty sure it used to run in 1080p/60Hz anyway as that’s my panel’s native res / refresh… not sure about the color space).

In any case, it’s a good tip as some devices don’t always correctly notify the Live about supported features / resolutions.  


#5

It’s the color space that’s the main difference – I think the “Auto” choice screws up the gamma (but hopefully we’ll find out for sure someday).

When I don’t run “Auto” for resolution my devices always report the Live defaulting to 720p for the menu system – when a movie plays it switched to 1080p but I want the menus to also be in full HD.


#6

mkelley wrote:

select High RGB (assuming you’re using NTSC sources

That explains, why I couldn’t find that setting :slight_smile:

 

Cocovanna


#7

Yeah, and I have to say after running some extensive tests (although the Live doesn’t make it easy, since you can’t just do A/B testing but need to back way out of whatever you’re viewing to go to settings to change things, and then start all over again) I’m now not so sure about the color space issue.

I still think it’s a good idea to force your resolution (because my tests have shown the Live doesn’t display 1080p if set to auto on any of my output devices for the menu – it will switch to that resolution for output if the file is 1080p) but now for color space I’m thinking auto is just fine.  Sigh.  One of these days I’ll actually know something about something.


#8

Hi there

I got the same problem with WD Live Player till I selected 1080p /24p but then I had to change this setting before watching any movies.By the way I realised that  my projector had some troubles in screening in 1080p 24p signals.

Can I anyone help me about that? Does 24p signals work on BluRay discs only cause there was an article claiming that 24p can work only BD media on Sony’s community page.

Staff that I use on Home Entertainment:

WD Live+ Optoma HD20 projector+Sony KDL W4500 LCD+Logitech Z5500 5.1 THX + Monsters 1000HD HDMI Cable


#9

Welcome to fhe forums.

I"m not sure exactly what your question is – are you asking if using 24p works on blu-ray discs only in terms of what your projector can do?  This is the Live forum, and it’s unlikely you’ll find anyone who knows what your projector can or can’t do.  My own projector is set at 1080p 60f, and it works fine on blu-ray or files played with the Live, but I also run everything through an AV receiver first (and, of course, I have a different projector than you do).

You might want to try posting your question on the AVS forums, where a bunch of knowledgable and helpful projector type folks live.


#10

Hi Kelly,

Thanks for responding me, my question is about whether WD Live can really support 24p or not I wonder If someone experienced that. That is why, I saw that WD automatically changed the resolution from 1080p/24p to 1080p/60.

And another question is do you advice me to use HDMI-Auto? Cause I fed up with changing setting the resolutions!

thanks.


#11

In your case I would advise you to leave te Live on Auto.


#12

Thanks for this thread Mike.

Odd behavior on my unit. Selecting 1080p high color results in significant interface artifacts and discoloration on my 1080p panasonic plasma. 1080i works fine, but for some reason not 1080p. I have tried all the different 1080p settings (23.97, 24, 50, 60), high/low color, etc but get the same results - circular splotches of pixelization in the interface itself.

Any ideas?

thanks


#13

Well, the idea is to find the display type that works properly for your setup, and because high color doesn’t work for you don’t use it then.

I have my HDTV set in the bedroom on auto and it’s fine.