Not sure exactly how to describe it other than the way a “refresh bar” sweeps left to right on the screen. Sort of like what you see when you video tape a monitor. Anyways, it’s pretty faint and I can only notice it on the background on certain lighted scenes, but it’s there. I thought it may be due to a particular rip of a movie but on the media player screen it’s noticeable when it prompts me with the “Press cancel to restart the movie or OK to resume playback” screen when I’m resuming a movie. I’ve never noticed this on my player before tonight I don’t think, but I’ve had the thing since January '09. Any ideas on what could be causing this??
How is it connected to your TV? It sounds to me like a grounding loop on a Component or Composite connection.
Just a regular HDMI cable, how would a grounding loop occur?
Yeah, not likely with HDMI. Not sure, really, what you might be seeing…
OK guys, absolutely sure not a ground loop. It’s a sweeping bar that was seen on the earlier models of my sony xbr 940 CRT tv while in 1080i, but not in 720p. This is the case with the WD player, sweeping bar in 1080i output and none in 720p. But my dish receiver works fine on the hdmi cable in 1080 with no sweeping bar… so it’s definitely the player. Should I even bother trying to contact WD about this issue??? Pretty bizarre to me.
Any way you could snap a photo or three?
“I seem to recall past discussions concerning various input components having differing 1080i scrolling bar results. Since the problem appears to be associated with the synchronization (timing) of the input signal to the internal processor timing, it may just be that some video input components are more closely matched to the tv than others, may result in differing results.”
A quote from someone who has seen the same problems with scrolling bar… You think Gen 2 WD could circumvent this issue?
It’s an interesting theory, but I don’t know if it holds water…
The TV should lock to the SOURCE’S timer via the SYNC signal in the GREEN headed COMPONENT cable (which actually carries only the LUMA), or the CLOCK signal on HDMI pins 10 and 12.
If they TV is SO out of phase with the source that it CAN’T lock, that’s a whole different issue. But if that’s the case, it’s hard to point a finger without testing it on another TV or something…