I shorted my external hard drive by putting in the wrong power source. Now I’m in need of a new logic board. It’s a Western Digital My Book 500 GB.
The hard drive itself is a WD Caviar GP.
WD P/N WD5000AAVS - 00G9B0
The logic board’s numbers are: 2061-701537-Q AD (sticker)
2060-701537-004 REV A
I bought a board from this website after the guy told me a board for a 2TB would work, but it did not. It’ll show up on my disk utility (using a caddy), but not my desktop and it says the drive is a 2TB. Was I screwed/misinformed, or is there another way to get my music off of the drive? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Haven’t had access to my music in about two months now and it’s driving me crazy.
Probably the only person to help with a fried drive is fzabkar if you have the original board. He’s helped quite a few people in your spot. You just learned never to never trust important data to just one physical drive intrnal or external.
Each board has unique, drive specific data stored in either an external 8-pin serial flash memory IC, or inside the MCU (the largest chip). These data need to be transferred from patient to donor.
… then the “adaptive” data are internal to the Marvell 88i8845C MCU (big “M”). There is a location at U12 which is wired for an external serial flash chip, but obviously it is vacant.
Your donor MCU needs the original data in order to be able to locate the System Area on the platters. The “adaptives” are also tuned to the original heads. Basically this means that you need specialist data recovery services … but only if you can’t repair your original board.
To this end, measure the resistances of TVS diodes D3 and D4, and zero-ohm resistors R64 and R67, located near the SATA power connector. Set your multimeter on the 200 ohms range. D4 will most probably be shorted, in which case you can snip it out with flush cutters. The drive will work perfectly well without it, but you will no longer have overvoltage protection on the affected supply. Therefore be absolutely certain your PSU is good. You may also find that R64 is open, in which case you can bridge it with a wire link or a blob of solder.
Thanks so much for your response. The donor board I have is identical to the original except for the info on the CMU. Do you think it’s possible to use the donor board if I have someone swap out the CMU and replace it with the CMU from the original board? Thanks again for your time.
Thanks. Yeah, I foolishly tried to remove the diode before without the proper equipment so it’s basically cripped. I’ll have to find someone that can swap it out at this point. Thanks again!
