New Release - My Net Router Firmware Updates (5/21/13)

@ Alain_qc

I only needed to set WiFI to 802.11n ONLY mode for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz but they are both enabled. I did not need to deactive 5GHz. I take it that setting to 802.11n was not enough and you needed to additionally deactive 5GHz as well?

Well, my router crashed again… I don’t know what to trick within the wireless parameters anymore…

Don’t know if it is any help!

I live in the Netherlands and set the wireless settings as 2.4ghz G+N channel width 20mhz

And the 5ghz as N only and channel width to 20/40 (auto).

Set the wireless security to WPA2-personal. And it has been running for a few weeks now without any issue.

This is with the latest firmware 1.07.16

Hope you get it resolved!

@ Pach15

Good points. I failed to mention (since this is what I’ve been doing for a while) but I also have set WPA2-personal as well.

Additionally I turned off FasttrackPlus and WMM. These were causing me problems in 1.05.12 with secured sites and also slowed down NAS drive access too much. I decided to go without these for 1.06.17 as well.

Unlike you I have N-only for 2.4GHz (don’t have G devices anymore) and left it at 20/40 auto for 2.4GHz (not sure if I should change that to 20MHz or not).

Pach15, if you can, perhaps you could point out ALL of the changes (from default factory settings) that you are using.If possible, list EVERYTHING (okay no need to list stuff like your complete static IP list or port forwarding list except a brief note you are customising those, you get the idea, …)

Then all of us can see which changes might help as you have been running without any issue for “weeks”. Ideally we would all be able to duplicate your settings completely and see if that would work for us as well.

If you can do this, thanks in advance! I think a detailed list would be very useful!

@ Alain_qc

If its not too much trouble, you might consider doing a factory default reset on the router under 1.06.17 and then make your customizations from scratch. Then perhaps list all of your customizations from then on.

For me, I set 2.4GHz and 5GHz to 802.11n - only mode, WPA2 - personal, Fasttrack Plus OFF, WMM OFF. (Can’t think of anything else special aside from those). But I did all this after a factory default reset. Maybe that will help. If you need G, then setting g/n mode in 2.4GHz is probably okay too (it seems to work for another poster).

I have heard this suggested by WD that it helps to “clean up” the settings by reseting them to default. Its not a big deal for me but I can see it might be if you have tons of customizations.

Also when your router “crashes”, I am curious as to what exactly doesn’t work. Is it that WiFi disconnects and SSIDs disappear? Is it that SSID is there but it refuses connection? Is it that the router just won’t allow you to connect to any websites (or only non-secured ones)? Does WIRED still work when it crashes?

@polypheus

Thanks for the suggestion, I did it already. I am affraid it is even worse than before :slight_smile:

After the router crashes, I lose internet connection on all my network components (laptop, ps3, desktop…) but the weird thing is that I can still access distant ssh servers… Both wired and wireless components are affected by the connection loss. The SSID is here and local connection is ok, I can transfer files from a PC to another, simply internet browsing is down.

@polypheus

Sure no problem! I do notice one big difference between the setup you are using (maybe this is where the issue is at).

I am not using any of the usb ports for NAS or any purpose like printer etc.! Since I use a dedicated server for that.

as for the configuration:

I upgraded the firmware to the latest did a complete factory reset.

changed the routers IP for DHCP  to 192.168.2.1 instead of xx.xx.1.1 (to avoid conflict with the modem that is static set at xx.xx.1.1)

Changed the ssid for 2,4ghz to MediaHome and for the 5ghz to MediaHome2.

I have changed the wireless settings for 2.4ghz to G+N and use the default 20 channel width and the 5ghz to N only and the default 20/40.

Changed the wireless security settings to WPA2-Personal and guest network to off. And left the FasttrackPlus and WMM on.

That is about it on the wireless part.

There are quite many devices using wireless with two desktop computers connected at 2.4Ghz at about 7 meter distance from the router and they stream without any problem. About 4 mobile phones a tablet and two laptops with only one mobile phone using the 5ghz. Most of the devices are on N but one phone is using the G. I do have friends/family come over with their mobile phones/tablets and they can connect without any issue too N or G.

As for wired there are 4 Ethernet cables connected with two of them running to a gigabit switch I have set the server to static IP and my XBMC PC (htpc). Those are the static IP’s the rest is auto. There are two mediaplayers in the bedrooms , a xbox 360 in my livingroom that connected to the first switch together with the XBMC PC (htpc).

The mediaplayers in the bedrooms are connected to the second switch and the server in the attic is too.

This is the complete map of the network.

We often push mediafiles wireless to XBMC from our mobile phones and I did not experience any issue yet!

Before this I had a TP-Link 1043ND but needed to be rebooted quite often for slowdowns (for example streaming from internet like youtube and (extreme slow) buffering in XBMC. I had none of this with the WD.

The wireless data transfer is higher too compared to the TP-Link. But the signal strength is a little less.

I hope this will help you guys to make things run smooth!

@ Pach15

Thanks for sharing your setup. Hopefully it will help many people.

One thing I was wondering is whether enabling 802.11a and 802.11b causes very noticeable instability for you as it does for me. If so, then that would corroborate that enabling A and B mode is what people should avoid. At this point in time, most people should have only G or N devices anyway.

If its not too trouble, perhaps simply change Wireless Mode 2.4GHz to b/g/n and 5GHz to a/n and see if that causes you problems.

For me, when I do this, it looks like it is working initially. But within a day, I will lose WiFi and can’t re-connect and can only get it to work by rebooting the router.

This firmware still doesn’t fix the issue with slow internet connection due to Fast Track Plus.

I also could not register my router.

The wireless signal on both bands are also not stable at all. Please fix…

Hi,

Installed a brand new mynet n900, and then did the firmware update via dashboard and got a failure.

checked the log and it shows:

Wed Jul 10 16:05:55 2013

Image file is not acceptable. Please check download version is right

but the dashboard shows the current version is up to date? 1.07.16

my question is:

i wanted to run the fw update again to make sure it ran properly, but I can’t run it manually or do the downgrade because whenever i try it,  i get an “unable to open page  http://192.168.1.1/fwup.cgi  http 400 Bad Request” (EDIT) Ok, thats in IE, if I use Chrome of FF, I get an “Invalid file” error message and can’t update (using either the newest or downgrade)… 

i have not changed any settings except passwords, the router seems to be running, but has very poor performance on roku stream and just average on general wireless audio streams which is why i got it to upgrade from an old buffalo router that just started to fail.

any help or suggestions appreciated on how i can rerun the fw update manually or otherwise  (or maybe that failure was ‘normal’ and I just need to tweak settings?)  -  thanks!

Stay away from any WD routers, mine has been useless for almost a full year now.

Funny how mine has had minimal issues except for the occasional disconnect from my Motorola SB6141 cable modem, but that problem lies with the modem and Time Warner Cables firmware, not my router.

Purchased a new N900 Router with a Motorola Surfboard SB6121 cable modem.  The N900 connected to my laptop with no problems, but would not connect to the internet.  However, I could connect the laptop directly to the modem and get internet access.  After spending a long time messing with the various settings, I decided to update the firmware version to the latest release 1.07, and now it connects fine.  The unit came installed with version 1.03.  Just thought I’d pass this along to anyone else having the same trouble.  Good luck.

Hi,

I have replaced last week under warranty my 1st router because of disconnecting issues, and now I am still having the same issues as you in this post, every morning, the router is frozen and I have to power it off-on.

Internet is connected but cannot acces the router, WIFI get stuck also after a while.

It is frustrating and discouraging not to have a reliable equipment.

When will be a new firmware for this router ? I have been waiting for so long already :frowning: Please do something WD.

QUOTE The only firmware that’s somewhat stable is 1.05.12. I have now reverted back. UNQUOTE

That is my experience too with an all wired network and attached D-Link DGS-1016D switch. The only issue is the client table sporadically populates whether clients are connected to the D-link or the router’s integral switch even though all attached devices are connected and working. Before I update the firmware, I’ll need to see ubiquitous positive reviews. In the mean time, I’ll let the beta testing continue (both WD employees and customers).  

OMG, when will be a new firmware for this router ? Please do something WD :frowning:

hi,

why this new version of firmware does not allow me to use remote access with WD2GO if I set the router in AP mode? In the configuration panel missing its functionality

thanks

WD has forgotton us, OSX Mavericks broke this router/network drive, they need to fix it ASAP to save face.  I’m about done with WD products for good, as well as reccomending them for customers.

palting wrote:

WD has forgotton us, OSX Mavericks broke this router/network drive, they need to fix it ASAP to save face.  I’m about done with WD products for good, as well as reccomending them for customers.

Just so you know, the issue with Mavericks is only affecting direct attached drives, not network drives.  Have you tried contacting WD about your problem? And with what device are you having issues?