Netflix Activation - Is it required?


#1

Hi Guys, I have a WDTV Live+ and I have started a trial with Netflix.  When accessing the Netflix page on the device I get a message that “Cannot connect to Netflix, please try again later…”  This has been the case for the last few hours.

Other devices require an Activation code to be entered on the Netflix site but after calling support at WD I was informed that no activation is necessary.

The Netflix site http://www.netflix.com/NetflixReadyDevicesDetails?trkid=1786767&lnkctr=nrd-d-m-324-wdtvliveplushdmediaplayer&pdid=324&lnkce=nrd-d does say activation is required and to do so just enter the activation number. How do I access Netflix? Is there a code and If so where do I find it.

My system is running wired CAT5 from the router with no issues when accessing Youtube, or my media server so I know the device is able to connect to the network/internet

Any help gratefully Received

Cheers

Andrew


#2

Well, activation is OF COURSE necessary.

You SHOULD get a screen that asks if you’re a netflix member, then the 6-character activation code immediately after which you enter at the Website.

You might be experiencing Internet outage to Netflix, or another transient issue…


#3

Thanks Tony I guess it was (sorry for being so much a newbie :slight_smile: Support threw me a little by saying no activation is required!

I get no such screen after entering yes to the “are you a member” question. Must be a connection issue. I will try again later.

Thanks again, much appreciated


#4

Yeah, that’s why I was shocked myself that they would say that.  Let us know if you continue having issues.   I’ve been watching NetFlix for the last few hours with no issues here…


#5

No, still not connecting :frowning:

Everything else connects fine, can watch youtube, listen to live365 etc, stream from pc ok but just get the message when trying to run Netflix. Netflix works fine on the computer so I guess the main modem/router is good. Computer connects to the same 4 port router that has the WD on it so at this time i’m at a loss.

Is there a port that needs opening maybe? The WD is hardware so no software firewalls to block anything. Just dosn’t make sense. Only thing I found was that other devices have to have the code entered into the neflix site before one can access the streams from the device… but i have no code so this must work differently. If there is no connecttion how do I get the code :frowning:

Shurely the connection cannot be down for so long, but why no connection for one site when everything else is working


#6

I had issues with netflix even after it worked for a day. I would suggest a “factory reset” from the settings menu and try again.

My issue is discussed here:

http://community.wdc.com/t5/General-Discussions/Netflix-Instant-Queue-Unavailable/td-p/29769


#7

Thanks for the feedback guys.

It turned out that I did have a block in the router (firewall was filtering some protocols). The old computer connected to this port on the router was not allowed ftp, email and few others. After reseting the profile for the WD in the firewall I was able to access the screen and authorise the device for Netflix.

However now I have everything authorised and can access netflix the playback is terrible. The screen flashes every second switching between the video and snow on the screen when using the HDMI output. Composite is playing back fine.

Back to the forums for ideas before this goes back

Cheers all.


#8

tboneus:  

I presume you’re NOT experiencing that “Snow” with anything other than NetFlix?

WD has indicated that there are some “HDMI Stack” issues with the Live+ because of the new Sigma SDK which is required to support DVD Navigation.   Perhaps it’s related, but if it’s NETFLIX ONLY giving you an issue, I kinda doubt it.

Component may be an option…


#9

No , only on Netflix

http://community.wdc.com/t5/General-Discussions/WD-TV-Live-Plus-Netflix-Issue-No-Video/td-p/29169/page/2

Posted in the other thread as the issue with the Activation is closed.

I have not tried component as that would mean purchasing a selector box even if it did work because I have no more component inputs spare on the TV. It could be the HDMI cable but I had to cut the connector down on the one I have so that the HDMI would work in the first place due to the non comlientcy of the sockets on the device. Another cable means another one to cut and more dollars wasted if it does not work because I would not be able to return a damaged cable.

If this problem persists (and a few other I have had while trying this player) I may have to chalk it down to experience and try another player. Theres a time to troubleshoot and a time to deciide there is no point throwing good money after bad.

Cheers anyway for your help. I appreciate it.


#10

I’m confused why you had to cut the cable to get it to work…

I may just not understand, but it would sound to me like you have a unit with a messed up plug if you have to cut it to work.


#11

jacked_blacked wrote:

I’m confused why you had to cut the cable to get it to work…

 

I may just not understand, but it would sound to me like you have a unit with a messed up plug if you have to cut it to work.

Sorry for the confusion I should say the shroud of the cable not the cable itself.

There are a couple of threads on here for example

http://community.wdc.com/t5/General-Discussions/hdmi-out-not-working-but-component-out-works/td-p/1896/page/4

The depth of the socket used for the HDMI port is not deep enough to accept a good connection so I had to trim a 3mm off the shroud of the plug to enable a good enough connection for the HDMI. The same plug fits fully into the TV, blueray, other laptops in the house. HDMI spec is different from the one implemented in the unit. The HDMI cables I have here are all the same distance between the shroud and the end (a standard set by the HDMI spec).

I would suspect that the actual issue is that the thickness of the case effectively reduces the depth a cable can be inserted, the socket itself is almost certainly standard. The hole in the case around the socket should allow for the shroud not just the plug itself.

Although this was only a minor inconvenience it does mean the cable cannot be returned. Purchasing another (if the issue with HDMI is the cable) would be an extra cost as that too would need to be cut.


#12

tboneus wrote:

 


jacked_blacked wrote:

I’m confused why you had to cut the cable to get it to work…

 

I may just not understand, but it would sound to me like you have a unit with a messed up plug if you have to cut it to work.


Sorry for the confusion I should say the shroud of the cable not the cable itself.

 

 

There are a couple of threads on here for example

 

http://community.wdc.com/t5/General-Discussions/hdmi-out-not-working-but-component-out-works/td-p/1896/page/4

 

The depth of the socket used for the HDMI port is not deep enough to accept a good connection so I had to trim a 3mm off the shroud of the plug to enable a good enough connection for the HDMI. The same plug fits fully into the TV, blueray, other laptops in the house. HDMI spec is different from the one implemented in the unit. The HDMI cables I have here are all the same distance between the shroud and the end (a standard set by the HDMI spec).

 

I would suspect that the actual issue is that the thickness of the case effectively reduces the depth a cable can be inserted, the socket itself is almost certainly standard. The hole in the case around the socket should allow for the shroud not just the plug itself.

 

Although this was only a minor inconvenience it does mean the cable cannot be returned. Purchasing another (if the issue with HDMI is the cable) would be an extra cost as that too would need to be cut.

Are you saying that we all have different thickness cases? I have a £3 ($4.5) HDMI cable from Asda (Wal-mart) and it works perfectly. I can also pull my plug out of the socket slightly and it still works.