I Fried My Book :'( help me please

i accidently pluged in my laptop power supply to my external hard drive and now it won’t work. i tried to take the disk out and plug it in my computer but the computer didn’t regconize it. How can i fix this ? Please help me. I’ve saved a lot of my works into that hard drive and i don’t want to lose them all :frowning:

The model on the enclosure is WDBAAF0015HBK-00

and the model on the hard drive is WD15ADS-11P8B1

Here are some pics

I tried to fix it  but it still won’t work .

I see you have linked R64, which is good, but you also need to remove diode D4 (13L marking). D4 will be shorted. You can snip it out with flush cutters. However, be advised that you will no longer have overvoltage protection on the +12V supply, so the next mistake will be fatal to your drive. If, for continued protection, you wish to replace D4, then obtain an SMBJ12A from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey.

1 Like

I’m at school right now but i will do it right away when i get home . Thank you very much sir :smiley:

i might sound stupid :smiley: : is the diode D4  (the triangle thingy ) located above R64? And if it’s removed how does it make a complete circuit ?

I just want to make sure that what  it is before i start to remove it :smiley:

Yes, this is D4:

It is there for over-voltage protection.  If you remove it, the drive will have no over-voltage protection, as fzabkar warned.  Right now it is shorted and fully conducting.  Removing it will prevent it from conducting, which will allow power to get to the rest of the circuit board.

Thank you sir :smiley:

You’re welcome.

I know fzabkar is around pretty frequently, but I also know how it can be waiting for somebody to come along and help you.  I wasn’t sure when fzabkar was going to be around next to answer you, so I figured I’d jump in. :smiley:

Did i snip it right ?

I thought it would work but it still won’t work . I jumped to the conclusion too early :frowning:

We really have no idea which way the current spread throughout the circuit. But, these diodes sometimes fail in an open circuit condition or a closed circuit condition. Well, either send me the drive and I can use best engineering practices to test and repair that board, or contact a data recovery company. Good luck to you!

LOL hey hey!!! Let’s go cut out D3 and sawder-uhp R67!! yeh that’ll work! Wheeeee!!

you’re joking right ?

Yes. Whatever works long enough to get the data back off the failed drive is indeed a valid solution.

I do, however, feel that a drive that has been overvoltaged to where the protection circuits let out the magic smoke might not be reliable for anything mission critical.

I do offer my data recovery skills and smt hardware repair skills as a service pretty much for free to anyone that has personal data like pictures and music and video files. Basically for free, ESPECIALLY to fellow hobbyists and folks that truly got themselves in a bind. You might need to get some parts though. Now, if you’re a business, I’ll charge you up the whazzooo!! You can afford it.

It’s a hobby and fun one at that. I can replace heads and motors transfer the ‘custom’ rom data that is unique to each controller board. Made my own little esd safe waldo cleanroom (rather a big tabletop box), complete with tools and power and pc connectors and whatnot.

I remember one of the first hard drives I repaired years ago had a stepper-motor based actuator, I had drilled holes in the housing and used dental floss to pull the head over a some of the tracks, or coax the head into position. Real fun stuff back then. Today, it’s a little different!

i put a lot of movies, video tutorials and games that i’ve collected over a year into that drive and i really don’t want to lose them.I’m not a bussinessman :D, i’m just a student. I will think about sending it to you but in the mean time,i’m waiting for what fzabkar think about this issue. Thanks for helping me though :smiley:

Do the 12V diode pads still test shorted? The TVS diodes are not always successful in limiting the damage. It could be that the motor controller chip is also damaged.

Are you now testing the drive in its original enclosure, or in a PC? Does the drive cause the PC’s PSU to shut down? Did you also test the 5V diode and resistor? The drive’s 5V input is unlikely to have been damaged because there is a secondary 5V DC-DC converter on the USB-SATA bridge board. An overvoltage from a laptop adapter should not damage this DC-DC converter.

If you need to replace the PCB, you will need to transfer the 8-pin serial EEPROM chip at location U12 from patient to donor. Note that the part number on the label on the PCB (2061-701640) is the p/n of the fully populated board, whereas the part number printed on the PCB (2060-701640) is the p/n of the bare board.

The following vendor normally offers a board, including firmware transfer, for US$70, but your PCB is not currently listed.


Am i supposed to put something on the D4 place where i snipped the diode out ? Because i snipped it out and i don’t think it’s a complete circuit unless i link it.

You can leave the diode out. It is connected in parallel with the supply, not in series. Therefore its absence doesn’t affect the continuity of any circuit.

can u tell me the position of the 5V diode and the resistor u mentioned above ?. I’ll try to get an ohm meter to test them. sorry for bothering you

Ps: Can u check if there is any unsual marks on my board ? I know nothing about circuit board :frowning:

The 5V TVS diode is at location D3. The associated zero-ohm resistor is R67. Both are near the SATA power connector.

I can’t see any visible damage.

BTW, it’s no bother. Normally I respond within a day, but I’ve just been away for a while.

i’m sorry for not replying.I still want to keep this thread alive until i found the solution. I’ve been quite busy studying for the final exams so i haven’t had much time to check the harddrive . Please give me a couple more days  . Thank you for helping me so far