I brought a HDMI cable, my tv (SANYO 32") has two HDMI slots (HDMI 1 & HDMI 2) Can I use the HDMI cables without having to use the composite wires (yellow,red and white)? I tried using the HDMI cable and I went to the HDMI input channel on my tv and it’s blank. Can someone tell me how to get this working or am I suppose to use both composite and HDMI cable? - thanks
Nope… Only the HDMI cable is needed. No need for Composite / Component if you’re using HDMI.
When the HDMI cable is installed and your TV is set to the correct input, try UNPLUGGING the POWER from the WDTV and plugging it back in.
Wait and see if you see ANYTHING on the screen during the boot-up.
Some additional suggestions:
When you plug in the HDMI cable, the TV and the WD box talk to each other to determine the correct frequency and resolution to set the video output (auto-negotiation). Sometimes, with certain TVs, the auto-negotiation does not work. Try connecting the composite cable. Go into the WD setup and manually set the video output to something that your TV supports (choose HDMI, select a reolution/frequency and then choose RGB Low). Switch your TV back to the HDMI input and see if you you have video.
BTW, it would be wise to try a different HDMI cable first.
Baring any wierd technical problems, bad cable, etc.it is quite easy. The only cable you need to hookup is the HDMI cable for video AND audio. It is a dual-purpose cable. No other cables are necessary from the WDTV to the TV.
Now, you said your TV has two HDMI inputs, likely called HDMI 1 and HDMI 2. So, notice which one you plug the HDMI cable from the WDTV into on the back of the TV set. Let’s say it is HDMI 1. OK, so on your TV remote is a button/menu to select the input source, so find the one for HDMI 1, select it , and your picture and sound from the WDTV should be there.
If not, then pull out the TV user manual and start reading to see if there is something else to do here. Hooking up an HDMI cable is not rocket science – be it from a WDTV, a blu-ray player, a DVR or any other gadget with an HDMI output. You just need to know and remember which source is going into which HDMI selection on your TV. For example, you can not see or hear the WDTV, if your TV is selecting the bly-ray HDMI input or vice versa. The more gadgets connected, the more confusing it can become!
this is the hdmi cable I brought - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O5U150/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details
I’m to try every method listed on here and see if it works. will be reporting back soon
Am I right in assuming you had it working with composite cables and now will try HDMI?
If so remember to change the video output settings to HDMI.
Barry
barrygreybeard wrote:
Am I right in assuming you had it working with composite cables and now will try HDMI?
If so remember to change the video output settings to HDMI.
Barry
It should not make any difference. There is an HDMI output and a composite output. The internal menu setting is just that and not an output selector.
ok, seems odd then to have a menu item that does absolutely nothing.
Barry
Some digital TV’s initially require a composite cable or component cable to set up the HDMI port. Therefore, you need the flexibility to switch the signal on the WDTV Live.
Contrary to popular belief a $5.00 HDMI cable will function just as reliably as a $500 HDMI cable. The only perceivable difference in the HDMI cables is the consumer pain associated with the hip pocket nerve.
thepanoguy wrote:
Some digital TV’s initially require a composite cable or component cable to set up the HDMI port. Therefore, you need the flexibility to switch the signal on the WDTV Live.
Contrary to popular belief a $5.00 HDMI cable will function just as reliably as a $500 HDMI cable. The only perceivable difference in the HDMI cables is the consumer pain associated with the hip pocket nerve.
Agree, and a few years ago I needed a lot of new cables for the new TV and all the HDMI-connected gizmos, so I went on a search for the HDMI cables with “the most bang for the buck” and came up with these 6-ft. ones from Amazon – I have 5 or 6 of them connected to the TV equipment, incl. the Live Plus, and a few still in pkgs for future use. Highly recommend them:
The above link seems to not always work in this message, so try clicking on the 3 dots at the end, or just search Amazon for: Fanatic Digital Imperial Series Gold-Plated HDMI Cable (6 feet) – and choose the first one shown.
I later needed some 3 ft. cables to hook to an HDMI 5-port switch box, then on to TV, and these work great, too:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049BUELQ/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
Both above cables are version 1.4 HDMI.
I wanted to sometimes hook the laptop to the TV, so I ordered this 15 ft. HDMI cable and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003620T5U/ref=oh_o00_s00_i01_details
Darn. these links don’t always work, so if you hear a click and a window doesn’t open, hold down the Ctrl key when clicking on the links. Or, open in a new tab. If all else fails, send me a private message if necessary.
FYI, you can request Amazon to give you a purchase history going back many years ,and it gets served to you as a spreadsheet file. That’s how I found all the above info today.
+1. I ended up hitting my local dollar store and paid $2/ea for a bunch of 3’ HDMI cords.
Nice thing about digital is it either works or it doesn’t. Really apparent when you plug in the cord.
Just like when I bought my last big screen. Buddy at the TV shop was pushing the $300 Monster surge protector. Said no need, it’s being plugged into a $60 UPS which works 1000x better. He shut up in a hurry. 
Wires wrote:
>>> +1. I ended up hitting my local dollar store and paid $2/ea for a bunch of 3’ HDMI cords.
Well, folks may want to stay away from the Dollar store variety if they have newer equipment, because HDMI is an evolving technology and there are different versions of HDMI cables. An older generation cable will not work correctly with say, a new 3D television. I just read at HDMI.org that even the way they label version numbers has changed as of this Jan 1. Click this link for lots of info about HDMI: http://www.hdmi.org/consumer/index.aspx
>>> Nice thing about digital is it either works or it doesn’t. Really apparent when you plug in the cord.
True, but again it depends on having the latest version cable for newer products that call for it.
>>> Just like when I bought my last big screen. Buddy at the TV shop was pushing the $300 Monster surge protector. Said no need, it’s being plugged into a $60 UPS which works 1000x better. He shut up in a hurry.
Since you mention Monster Cable, they are totally overpriced products, and meant to fatten profit margins at Best Buy when they sell you a new TV, etc. A few years ago I purchased some used high-end stereo gear off of Craigslist from a guy who later told me when I picked up the gear he had once been a rep (or manager) for Monster Cable. He confirmed my suspicions about most of their products. They’re pretty good, but not worth the high prices, and in many cases the hype they put forth. True story, so take it and use the info any way you find it valuable.
I am a qualified electrician who used to work in the electrical/electronics servicing industry. I find it very comical amusing with some of the claims and beliefs circulating on the internet.
Reputable manufacturers are not as stupid as salesmen claim. There is a lot of research, development, destructive testing and electrical certification before the product is released on the market.
Always purchase your equipment and cables from a reputable source. Keep away from unknown online sellers; most of the products are counterfeit.
A UPS is only required for critical 24/7 computer applications or where the mains supply is erratic/unstable.
Filtered power boards are an absolute waste of money.
The majority of consumer video products use a switched mode power supply. The switched mode power supply contains far superior higher speed filtering protection and protection electronics than any off the shelf filtered power board. The switched mode protection circuit will have done its job of protecting the consumer device before the filtered power board has sensed any electrical fault.
All modern electronic circuits contain semi-conductors, solder, gold, tin plated copper printed circuit boards and brass and nickel plated connectors. Electrons do not know the difference between the various metals used in an electronic circuit. The signal will reach its destination if all the components, soldered joints and interconnects function correctly.
Interconnects usually malfunction due to excessive volt drop in the cable. As long as the volt drop in the cable is within the electronic component specifications and adequately earth shielded from any external electrical interference that cable will work reliably.
If anyone claims that an esoteric interconnect will improve performance ask for the scientific documentation. There is one million dollars waiting to be collected if the claim can be independently scientifically validated.
Power amplifiers use a well protected 50/60 Hz double wound, earth shielded transformer. The secondary power supply is just as adequately protected as a switched mode power supply.
Agree again. Good signal cables (e,g, HDMI) cables do not have to be expensive, made by Monster Cable, or cost a small fortune. On the other hand, as for “Dollar Store” cables, well, I would avoid them. There is a reason they are in the dollar stores – they are cheap in every way.
A good, not too expensive surge protector is handy, if for nothing else but to have a bunch of AC jacks to plug all this stuff into! Also, it can be the first line of defense if there is a power surge. I actually have an inexpensive low-level Philips brand protector at the wall that I plug my “better” surge supressor into. It is rated fairly low for sustaining a power hit, and I think of it as my “sacrificial” surge supressor, and it better be the first (and only) item to blow if stuff happens!
mike27oct wrote:
Agree again. Good signal cables (e,g, HDMI) cables do not have to be expensive, made by Monster Cable, or cost a small fortune. On the other hand, as for “Dollar Store” cables, well, I would avoid them. There is a reason they are in the dollar stores – they are cheap in every way.
I use very cheap HDMI cables from Asda UK (Wal-Mart) costing about $7. They work very well without any problems. If they work they work and if they don’t they don’t, its not rocket science. HDMI leads are the biggest rip off I have seen.
Okay, I tried changing the settings on Video Output. i changed it to HDMI but it changes back to composite.
I got it to work… I tried another HDMI cable, plugged it in, powered off my wd player, then powered it back on, waited, and it worked. thanks.
Whew! Glad it works.
