Hd my passaport decoupling computer

MY HD IS SHUTTING DOWN ANY COMPUTER THAT I CONNECT IT. SO I plug the HD HIM OFF THE MACHINE, THE COMPUTER IS NOT ENOUGH NOT IDENTIFY THE DRIVE, OFF INSTANTLY. HELP PLEASE. HELP ME PLEASE. HAVE MANY IMPORTANT INFORMATION THEREIN. NOTE: IT IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

Hello yanto, have you tried using another USB cable? Be sure to use one of the same length as the original cable, longer cables can cause power inconsistencies. 

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hello, friend, yes, I put another cable in the same way and continues the same way, turning off the computer. please help me.

Have you tried connecting the Passport to another PC to see if the same problem happens? If it does, you should contact tech support directly, but it seems like you will provably need to replace it. If you have any important files that you need to recover, you can contact any of the recommended data recovery partners on the WD Support page. Check the links below for more information. 

Service & Support

http://support.wdc.com/contact/index.asp?lang=en

Data Recovery

http://support.wdc.com/recovery/index.asp?wdc_lang=en

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It sounds like the USB to SATA interface has shorted the +5 and GND pins.

This will cause a PC power supply overload condition and shut down the PC completely the moment you plug it in, or prevent it form powering up if it’s already plugged in.

If it’s under warranty, and you need your data back, you cannot send it for service, because they will replace your drive.

I’d love to say that I can help you out here, but the last time I did that, WD removed my post for “ADVERTISING”.

Go figure.

WD doesn’t like people to keep their data, they just want us to buy their drives.

if you can derive for yourself the address of my website yourself by looking at my nickname though, then I don’t see how that could be considered advertising, and should you send me an email from there, then we can talk.

Otherwise, good luck!

Put an ohm meter across the +5 and GND of your USB connector (outside 2 pins) and I will almost guarantee you that they are zero or close to zero ohms.

There is a circuit called a “crowbar” on the power line designed to protect the circuitry from an over voltage, but it does so by shorting the power input. Removing the crowbar usually allows normal operation - which is good enough to run the drive and get your data back - and then you can go about getting your drive replaced.

If you’re good with electronics, look for a bad zener diode or regulator etc. Replace as needed.

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