Hard Drive Idle Sounds


Please let me know how that works out. I am still dumbfounded with the lack of information from WD concerning this issue. What complicates it for me is the fact that my 2nd drive is no longer making the 4-5 sec. tics. If it were not for the HD activity light issue it would now be considered a perfect drive:)


Well, I now have a 1TB Black (Old Stock) in my computer due to the POS WD is sending out. Amazon overnighted the drive to me due to the delays in stock and what do I get… A drive that is in an unopened factory bag from WD with a damaged seal on it. Seal was not completely punctured but it was enough that WD would probably not cover it under warranty if needed down the road.

So poke me with a fork WD, I’m DONE until you get your act together on the WD Gold Drives!!!

Also, I was totally amazed at how much faster the PC boots now and guess what… It is as quiet as a church mouse!!!

Now to figure out how to do my backups to the smaller drive. (:cry:


The Toshiba X300 6TB hard drive arrived today, and while it will take several days to fully test it, I can already see a remarkable difference between it and any WD hard drive I’ve ever owned. Unlike Western Digital hard drives, the Toshiba hard drive is dead silent. In fact, it’s so silent that I had to check device manager just to be certain it was recognized by my computer.

Given the fact that I have limited time to return the WD Gold 4TB hard drives, I think I’m going to skip my normal testing method and simply copy all my data to the 6TB hard drive, then wipe the free space to ensure that every sector has been written to at least once. Afterwards, I will check the S.M.A.R.T. attributes again to ensure that no errors have suddenly appeared.

Overall, unless something goes wrong, which I doubt will be the case, I’m extremely pleased with my decision to finally ditch Western Digital and give Toshiba a try.


Hope it turns out well for you. As far as my situation, I am done for now. The 1TB Black (2015) is performing as it should and my system is quite. I wish there were a way for us to have a conversation outside of this site as I have some info I would like to share but not for…well you get the message. At least for now this nightmare has ended…


Send me a PM and I will tell you how to contact me directly.


How is the 6TB Toshiba doing?


The Toshiba X300 6TB hard drive has performed flawlessly so far. It’s very fast and does not make any idle noises, acting and sounding very much like a standard hard drive. It makes a little noise while performing heavy read/write operations, but that’s to be expected from high capacity hard drives due to the areal density of the platters. In other words, it’s just the nature of the beast. Overall, I’m very satisfied, as long as they stand the test of time.




Is it possible WDGOLD with strange noise to complain for my supplier? I want mooney back, because I dont trust hdd with strange noise, he cant 100% OK?


The only way you will know is to ask your supplier. The best answer anyone could provide under these circumstances is to say yes or no, with a 50/50 chance of being right or wrong. Asking this type of question on a forum without stating the purchase date or supplier name is unlikely to yeild any useful answers.


Has anyone tried to complain this problem?


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Well, it has been almost 4 months and the Toshiba X300 6TB hard drive has performed flawlessly, unlike the WD Black/Gold hard drives, which were a royal PITA from day one. Which reminds me, the 6TB is almost full… time to buy another one.


Did anyone consider using the WDIDLE3 utility to disable parking? This is the major cause of wear & tear on all HDD’s, not just WD, only there’s a bootable ISO to make the parking times longer between events (default is 8 seconds), can be upped as far as needed, or disabled altogether (wdidle3 /d).

This is what I performed on all of my WD RE4’s long ago, recently purchased two of the 2TB WD Gold’s, while the casing may be the same, I believe there’s more involved than what label is slapped on. First off, the obvious, only the WD Gold has a 128MB cache (256MB on high capacity models), while the rest are still at 64MB, so has to be more than firmware.

Also, unlike the ultra low cost drives (the Blue model), the warranty is significantly longer, 5 years versus 2, so WD has confidence that these will last. Unlike SSD’s, there’s no limit to TBW that would cause the warranty to be voided prior to the years, although today, I still truly believe that a quality brand of SSD will outlast most all new HDD’s, have two Samsung 850 Pro models with 10 year warranties & will never reach the allowed TBW before then, as my downloads, documents, pictures/videos & virtual machines are on the HDD.

Finally, the only HDD that I’ve had to go bad on me, although found a tool & used some trickery to revive was a Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200.11, which were notorious over firmware issues that between late 2008 through early 2010 & affected tens of thousands of consumers (well, those who reported). And the worst thing was, Seagate had no magical ‘fix’, it took the efforts of those coming from the School of Hard Knocks to figure out how to revive, yet the consumer still had at that time to obtain components for the job. Today, there’s eBay suppliers offering the complete tool for $15 shipped, mine after laying unused for 3 years, was finally revived & I didn’t bother with the updated firmware, installed in a secondary PC & am imaging twice weekly. Should it fail again, will fix & update firmware.

Have never had a SSD to die on me, my first in 2012, a 128GB Crucial m4, while not the fastest writing model at a little over 200MB/.sec (the 2TB WD Gold almost matches that speed), still has 98% lifespan left.

So my vote is for the WDIDLE3 utility, while cannot be downloaded from WD any longer (or hard to find) is hosted on several sites in a zip file, I used Rufus to create a USB bootable ISO & all of my WD HDD’s other than the Gold’s has parking disabled. I’m wondering if that’s the noise, because these drives has twice the platters of the Black series & more around or past the 6TB mark. This utility were originally created for the WD Green drives, although expanded to the WD RE4-GP, once the disable flag (/D) is selected, will flash not only into a regular WD RE4, also w/out head parking (WDIDLE3 /D). As mentioned above, one can choose to keep parking, although at a much reduced rate. This is why drives that runs 24/7, as RE4 & Gold models are designed for, in addition to RAID, has few start/stop cycles, even after 15,000 hours of use.

I purchased a 1TB RE4 still under warranty on eBay for $19 shipped, manufactured in 2013, had around that many hours of uptime, although with under 100 start/stop cycles, within a week, that value had been doubled by my usage, once I ran the WDIDLE3 utility, these fell more in line with my boot cycles, rather than head parking. So I’d assume, the larger the drive, the more & larger platters, the more one will notice weird sounds every few seconds. Fortunately, while we can fix this with the WDIDLE3 utility, there’s not a similar tool for Seagate HDD’s, which now includes the once popular Samsung models & any other corporations (or HDD divisions, in the case of Samsung) that was acquired by the corporation.

At any rate, that’s my two cents on the issue, it’s something worth considering, and by chance if one doesn’t like the results, can be reverted to defaults if desired, or at least a far less aggressive spin down cycle. The way WD drives are shipped, early death is built into these drives & why the Red & Gold series aren’t recommended for desktop usage. I chose the Gold because first, it’s the successor to the Re4 line, secondly, double the cache & more features for only $15 more than a consumer based WD Black of the same size (2TB). Note that I also purchase ‘prosumer’ SSD’s also, my best are the Samsung 950/960 PRO PCIe models, will go beyond the distance of the consumer based EVO line.



Head parking is/was not the source of the problem, been there done that. Besides, the WDIDLE3 utility does not work on most newer high-capacity hard drives.

The warranty is worthless because WD only sends used “recertified” hard drives as warranty replacements and forces the customer to pay for shipping. Adding insult to injury is the fact that WD does not seem to properly test the so-called “recertified” hard drives, as evidenced by numerous complaints about RMA hard drives failing or being dead on arrival.


It’s been some time back, you’re correct on WD sending out recertified drives, I purchased a 750GB WD Caviar Black from Newegg & after a month began vibrating, so contacted WD for RMA. They emailed me a return label at no cost after speaking with someone who had the authority to say ‘Yes’, and when I received a 1TB WD Black in return, felt that they done me a favor.

Only after I placed the drive into a backup enclosure after upgrading to a SSD, I noticed in fine print it had been recertified, although to be honest, the drive performed w/out any troubles. No vibration or other weird sounds, performed like new & still a perfectly working backup. The only reason that I retired the drive to backup was because I had purchased two brand new Samsung Spinpoint 1TB HD103SJ drives (now also backups) & these were not only lower in cost, the performance was a bit better & because of this, never installed the offered upgraded firmware. No need to fix what wasn’t broken.:wink:

To this day, if the need arises, I have no fear of placing these drives back into active duty as internal Data drives, it’s just that I later discovered the RE4 lineup & more recent, the SATA-3 WD Gold, as well as three Seagate 1TB ST1000DM 003 (the first shipped with my XPS 8700). Performed so well that at $49.99 each on promo, felt compelled to purchase, so except for a couple, most of my remaioning RE4’s are also now backups & I ran the WDIDLE3 utility on those, yet haven’t on the Gold models. This is because one can disable parking via cmd or by adding a registry file that provides enhanced AHCI power management, set to HIPM-DIPM (for SSD-HDD combo) & the timer to ‘0’ or Never. This act alone disables parking as long as it’s in that computer with the current power plan.

While this may not be the source of your issue, as you’ve indicated, the only other issue I can come up with is that you’ve had more than your share of bad luck. Maybe the drives were damaged during shipping, if not packed well (Newegg once was terrible about this), one can have issues out of the box or not long afterwards. I suspect this to be the case with the 750GB Caviar Black I had to RMA, because the UPS carrier left the box on the front step & there was a hole in the corner of the box, only a layer of brown paper kept the HDD from being exposed. Nowadays, the drives are shipped in a plastic case with end caps for protection (just as the recertified HDD arrived in 2010), although this is likely the way these are received from WD, rather than action on the part of Newegg.

As far as receiving recertified drives under warranty goes, that’s the way it is with many consumer purchases. What do you think about when the transmission went out on my 2001 Toyota Solara & hadn’t even made the 2nd payment yet? While surprising, considering being a Toyota, what was more so was receiving a remanufactured unit over a new one. When I seen this on my invoice at pickup & objected, they told me to read the warranty terms, at their discretion, depending on parts availability, they reserve the right to replace with new, remanufactured, or tested working components (pulls). And that these components are still covered under their warranty.

So far, have been lucky, the transmission has performed flawlessly for over 16 years, although consider myself lucky & have regular maintenance performed every 30,000 miles (old fluid flushed & refilled with new). At the dealership, they only drain what’s in the pan & top off, where I now get work performed it’s done right. Point being, regardless of component replacement, unless stated otherwise, most will receive recertified over brand new, the same applies to SSD’s. Sometimes, depending on corporation, the recertified replacements are tested more so than brand new models, this is why the Apple store gives only a small discount on these computers.

In closing, maybe my luck has been much better than others when receiving recertified replacements.



Shipping damage was not the problem either. I am hyper-paranoid about any signs of shipping damage to hard drives and will not hesitate to send one back if it is not packed properly and/or the shipping box shows any hint of damage. In my case, the drives were sent in special boxes lined with custom bubble wrap enclosures.

Since the idle noise issue appears to affect most newer WD hard drives, regardless of color or capacity, it is only logical to assume that the idle noise “functionality” is hard-coded into the firmware. Personally, I believe it’s a surreptitious form of planned obsolescence designed to wear out hard drives faster by keeping them as active as possible, especially when idle.

I happen to be a highly-skilled auto mechanic, and there is a huge difference between remanufactured and recertified. A remanufactured product is fully disassembled and any worn or damaged parts are replaced with new ones. In the case of an automatic transmission, it almost certainly means that a brand new set of clutches and bands were installed, in addition to other miscellaneous parts.

On the other hand, a so-called recertified hard drive is not disassembled, nor does it receive any new parts. If any part of a hard drive is defective and/or failing, it may not be caught during testing, assuming that a manufacturer even bothers to properly test it.


Same “chunking” noise here on my 4tb black. I’m so sick of it. WD tech support acts like they have never heard of this issue. I’ve called several times and they always want me to run their diagnostic program which has never offered any clues.

I’m about to wrap the drive in bubble wrap and use an extension cable and put inside a beer cooler.

Comments appreciated


I have the same or a similar problem. My PR2100 is about 18 months old. The problem of the repeated noise seems to have started with the most recent firmware update to version 2.30.193. This is on a PR2100 with two 6TB drives in RAID 1 mode. WD support has had me to a quick test (all OK), system test (all OK), reboot, 4 second reset, 40 second reset, and you may have guessed, none of these made any difference. Each time I reboot the log indicates the Media Scan was interrupted. Since I was traveling, I believe this constant activity of Media Scan continued at one point for 9 days uninterrupted.

I’m not sure how to interpret the SMART data. The Current/Worst values for drive 1 are:
Raw_Read-Error rate: 200/200
Spin_Up_Time: 203/196
Start Stop Count: 95/95
Reallocated Sector Count: 200/200
Seek Error Rate: 200/200
Power On Hours: 88 (this doesn’t seem to ever change.
Numbers are similar for the other drive except its Power On Hours seems to always be 83/83.

Other than the constantly repeated noise (with blue light flickers), the drives appear to be functioning OK. I have about 3TB of data on the drives. The data is backed up to other drives. I’m thinking of doing a complete reset and rebuild of the data although I suspect it is a bug in the most recent firmware update related to the media scan.

I have about 1TB of photos and 1TB of movies. Any suggestions beyond starting over?


Problem solved! I took a Photoshop class and for some reason decided to try something in Lightroom. Lightroom created over 100,000 files from my photo library (1 per photo file). I deleted the Lightroom folder from my private share and the public share. So 200,000 fewer media files on my PR2100. Now my PR2100 is resting comfortably.