A couple of months ago I started noticing that, when watching a video, there would be cracles and pops coming through the speakers. With time this problem grew bigger, and low hums or hight-pitched frequencies were present until I stopped playing the video and restarted it. For a while this was at its worst when I started using the player and went away slowly afterwards. Lately, though, they keep coming through for the entirety of a video.
I realised after troubleshooting a bit that if I switched to Stereo instead of Digital Output the problem is much, much smaller (but the occasional pop is still there).
I changed my HDMI cable. I changed the multiple plug wall outlet, fearing there might be some grounding problem. I changed HDMI ports on my receiver. Other units, btw, play just fine through it.
Crackels, pops and low hum sounds are all signs of loose connections, bad grounds, etc. somewhere in the audio circuitry. Not likely coming from the WDTV itself, but from cable connections to and from it. Check 'em all by unplugging both ends and reseating them. (All done with the power off, of course.)
As I said, I did replace the HDMI cable which is the only way my unit is connected to the receiver. I had also reseated all speaker cables.
I understand what you’re saying, but the behavior of the noise doesn’t make much sense in a bad cabling context where it’d be constant… As I said, it would be very noticeable when starting a vid and then grafually fade away, though this has grown much worse now.Strangely after coming back from vacation and after about 3 weeks of everything having been turned off (completely), the problem was huge.
Oh, also, if it was bad cabling why would it be so much worse with Ditigal Sound enabled vs Stereo?
What do you send the audio to? Directly from the Hub to the TV via HDMI cable? Does it stop at the TV or get passed to an audio system? If it gets paaed how is it getting to your Amp?
I had this problem with a PS3 when I attached it to my amp. I had to adjust the INPUT levels on the AMP I send the audio into. Sometimes it’s also the way you have that input EQ’d…too much base on the amp will cause the speakers to overdrive which might be the pops and crackles. The hum might just be that you hear the 60 cycles from the AC because of crappy/failing/inadequate filter capacitors and that gain being so high. Once the cracks and pops are gone the hum probably will be not so noticeable.
Something quick you can do to sorta test this theory, install the WD Remote app (available in Android or ithing) there is a volume control in it for the Hub. Play something that you know will cause the problem and then lower the volume on the Hub with the app and see if it helps.
Hello and thanks for your reply, fihthemi (“themi”?)
My WDTV Hub is connected to the amp through HDMI, and the amp itself is, in turn, connected through HDMI to the TV and directly to the speakers for audio. My WDTV Audio is set to HDMI (auto). The amp itself is not a bad unit so as to have to suspect failing parts, it’s a 3-year old Marantz NR1501. as I said, other devices, like my Wii or 360 do not cause such issues.
Your idea was good, but no soap unfortunately… I tried using the Android Remote app but upping or lowering the volume didn’t have any effect on the unit.
So I guess noone else has encountered this. **bleep**.
So, is the problem in both channels or only one? Swap channel cables and see if problem moves from one channel to another.
It could be the WD, so tap it firmly a few times and see if that affects things (with sound on, but nor too loud.) Tap other units, too. If something is loose inside, source of problem might expose itself this way.
It is possible to be the amp, too. I have an amp that does the same thing, so it was removed and needs repair. The problem is only with the left channel.
If you’re passing from Hub to TV to amp maybe there is a setting in the TVs audio you could use to cut back the level into the amp or the way the signal is passed off.
Maybe you could try using one of the other outputs from the hub into the amp to try and determine if its a HDMI problem.
Maybe a headphone jack on the TV and a set of headphones?
Hello and thanks for your reply, fihthemi (“themi”?)
My WDTV Hub is connected to the amp through HDMI, and the amp itself is, in turn, connected through HDMI to the TV and directly to the speakers for audio. My WDTV Audio is set to HDMI (auto). The amp itself is not a bad unit so as to have to suspect failing parts, it’s a 3-year old Marantz NR1501. as I said, other devices, like my Wii or 360 do not cause such issues.
Your idea was good, but no soap unfortunately… I tried using the Android Remote app but upping or lowering the volume didn’t have any effect on the unit.
So I guess noone else has encountered this. **bleep**.
But, thanks for trying to help!
T
So have you tried connecting your player directly to your TV (as a test). Do you still get the crackles and pops.
@mike27oct: unfortunately, it comes through on every channel on a 5.1 setup… I opened the unit up and took a look around, everything seems in place -especially since there are no socketed elements, but I’ll try pushing stuff around (hey, my Atari ST days all over again! ). Yes, I thought about it being the amp’s fault, but the fact that other inputs work fine kind of negates this possibility…
@gihthemi: no, it’s WDTV->amp->TV&speakers. But I was thinking the other inputs, will try to find some cables tomorrow (it’s midnight here). Headphones are a great idea, shame I threw my headphones away this week (darn…) but I’ll find an adaptor to try the in-ear phones I’ve got.
@rich: connecting it to the TV produces little or no noise, but then again the TV only accepts stereo output from the WDTV, which is already quite better through the amp too so I can’t be sure…
Thanks again for the help, guys! Will report tomorrow after testing a non-HDMI and phones solution.
Well, I couldn’t find my spare AV cables or a jack adaptor for my headphones, however I did find another WD unit that I tried. Exact same settings, same cables etc, sound is perfect… so it *is* the Hub…
After all, I think one of the chips on board is failing slowly but steadily… **bleep**. and I won’t be buying another Hub since I have a perfectly usable 1TB disk from the current one.Such a pity.
From the indications mentioned, I would say it is the Hub, OR since every cable to the Hub was disconnected to set up the other WD, the connections were “refreshed”. If you haven’t already, connect the Hub back up as before. Is problem still there with same cables, etc? If so, it pretty much indicates the Hub itself, and it doesn’t not sound like a setting issue, but rather a failing component inside; likely a microchip, since that’s pretty much all that is inside, but it IS possible that somehow one of the cable connections inside is loose, so look at all connecting components on Hub. Look for cracks in circuit boards, too. You could try to wiggle things around with cover off and unit working, and if you gently wiggle something and problem changes sound or goes away, that could be a giveaway,too. Just be sure you use something totally non-electrically conductive, like a plastic “thing”, that you can do this with.
If it’s the Hub, just find a used one on eBay, and move on. Things do break and fail (as I re-discovered yesterday, when I went to start a laptop I had not turned on in six months and was stored in a puter bag. Totally not turning on ; no lights, no sound, no BSOD, no nothin’! Yes, I checked battery and PS – I have another laptop like it, so swapped those out right away.)
@richUK: yeah, tried another PSU as well, one of the first things I did (forgot to mention it)…
@mike27oct: yes, I did re-test the Hub after switching units, and I have looked at the board for dry joints for quite a while, no soap. Only thing I was thinking was, maybe add a heat sink to the major components, but then again since the problem appears even right after I turn the unit on, heat doesn’t seem to be the issue.
The problem with this model is that the HDD is a major component cost. Since even on eBay these don’t go for cheap, and since the HDD is working fine, I think it’d make better sense to buy something like the Sidewinder3 and shove the HDD in it…
Too bad about your laptop, you had stored it with the battery installed?
So, it does seem like your Hub has failed. How about buying a Hub on eBay where it is disclosed the HD is dead, and put yours in it? The HD in the Hub is not WD’s best, in fact it is their slowest one. So, buy an SMP new, a 7200 rpm 1TB portable drive can be had on sale for $70 on sale – I recently bought one, a Touro Pro made by Hitachi (now owned by WD). . Or just pop for a new 2TB Hub.
As for my PC that has pooped out, it is not the battery, for as I said, I have another PC like it and charged the battery in the other PC. It appears when I press the power button nothing happens. I wish it hadn’t happened, but it was definitely a secondary laptop and why it was stored away in a closet for six months.
). Yes, I thought about it being the amp’s fault, but the fact that other inputs work fine kind of negates this possibility…
