Burnt hard drive controller (Western Digital WD5000KS-00MNB0)

My 500GB Western Digital WD5000KS-00MNB0 hard drive suddenly died. No warnings, no SMART impending failure alerts, nothing. It was working without a hitch the last time I used it. Then I powered on the computer a day later and it simply disappeared from the face of this earth.

It doesn’t show in the BIOS and it doesn’t appear in Windows. It doesn’t work on another rig and it doesn’t even work with an external casing. When I put my ear to the device when powered on with the external casing, there’s no activity going on. The platters don’t turn neither are there any sort of ticks or other noises.

This led me to believe that there’s some issue with the power circuitry as the platters aren’t getting any power. So I took a STAR screwdriver and proceeded to remove the hard drive controller. Here’s what I found: ImageShack Album - 8 images (http://img830.imageshack.us/i/dsc02281r.jpg/)](http://img830.imageshack.us/i/dsc02282f.jpg/)](http://img140.imageshack.us/i/dsc02280ms.jpg/)]

If you look at the pictures, it appears that some logic controller on the circuit board is dead, probably burnt from bad power from a faulty PSU(?) or from overheating. If I can replace the controller board, I should hopefully have my poor baby back in the groove

I am willing to go to any lengths as this 500GB hard drive had all my preciously collected music (~80GB of my best music as I only keep what I listen to and discard the rest), lots of HD and non-HD movies, lots of downloads and lots and lots of photos. Someone please shoot me in the head because I don’t have a backup of any of this data Pros, here’s a question: What are the chances that my data is intact on the platters and retrieveable?
I found a couple of places online that sell the PCB of my WD5000KS-00MNB0. Here are a couple of links: PCB for WD5000KS-00MNB0 00MNBO 2060-701383-001 REV A For Sale and PCB for WD5000KS-00MNB0 500gb 7200rpm SATA Hard Drive - eBay (item 170552024447 end time Nov-11-10 13:33:44 PST)

Should I go ahead and order one and replace it myself? Are there any other factors that need to be looked in? Also, all of the WD5000KS-00MNB0 controller boards I’ve found online have different DCM IDs. Take the ebay one for instance - it mentions DCM: HBACAJAAB while my drive’s DCM is HCHCAJAH. Is it required that the DCM IDs need to be exactly the same? If anyone here has tried this with success do respond here.

Thanks in advance.

When you replace the PCB, you need to transfer the 8-pin serial EEPROM chip at location U12 from patient to donor. This IC stores unique, drive specific calibration data. If you are not experienced in soldering, then ask your local TV/AV repair shop.

For a replacement PCB, including firmware transfer, try the following vendor:

These URLs should help you identify the components:


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Hi fzabkar,

Thanks a ton for the reply. But tell me this: does the DCM code matter as well? For very few of the online sites that sell these PCBs mention that DCM code. Those that do mention the code don’t match mine :frowning:

I’m not certain about DCM matching, but I believe DCM codes are more important when matching mechanical parts. You should ask the vendor, or you could ask the data recovery guys at HDD Guru.

This forum thread explains DCM (Drive Configuration Matrix):

One day I tuned it off and later the computer would not turn on.  I opened it up and my geek son told me to replace the power source.  I did but it still wouldn’t turn on.  Then I disconnted the drives and tried again.  The problem drive is secondary (It has ALL the Music I carefully ripped from my CDs).  when I pulled it out - the computer started right up.  If I connect it - not only won’t it boot - but it shuts down everything and I have to pull the plug and let it sit a while before I try to power on again.  Please help me…I’m the mother of geeks but that’ll only get you so much free help. 

could this be a burnt pin?

Mother of Geeks, it sounds like your drive may have a shorted TVS diode. If you can upload a detailed photo of the component side of your board, someone will be able to identify the faulty component for you. If there is no other damage, you can simply remove the diode with flush cutters. However, be absolutely certain your power supply is OK, as your drive will no longer have protection from overvoltages.

I have a brand new power supply and I’m running on  the primary hard drive.  The drive that won’t work has all the music on it!  EEEKKK.   I’t sitting silently on my desk.  Any chance I can recover my tunes? 

I’m not sure what pictures are needed - have webcam will take more.  Thanks  oh great and wondrous Internets!

Picture 251.jpg Picture 243.jpg Picture 226.jpg Picture 227.jpg Picture 229.jpg Picture 228.jpg

stillonline, you misunderstood me. You need to remove the circuit board that is part of the hard drive. Instead you have uploaded photos of your computer’s motherboard. BTW, I need to see the side with the components, not the underside. Rest assured that the fix in most cases is an easy no-cost DIY.

D’oh!  I have no implement to remove it.  It is not phillips screwdriverable.  Nor does my collection of  allen wrenches.

It’s probably a Torx bit, maybe size 6.

See the second from left on top row:

yup that’s it - now what?

Some boards have the chips on the visible side, while other boards need to be removed to gain access to the chips. If yours falls into the latter category, then unscrew the board and lift it off the drive. Do it on a static free surface.

Finally spent 9 bucks at amazon and got the wrench.  The melting part is obvious but hard to photograph.  I’ll try again if this isn’t enough. Picture 261.jpg Picture 260.jpg Picture 259.jpg

Better photo - Photo0113.jpeg

Help please don’t forget me…

This is the best picture I got.  It is actually burnt.  Can i fix this and rescue my collection of music? Photo0113.jpeg

Stillonline, the first photos weren’t clear, so I had to wait for the follow-up. Be aware that, although you can see your own photos immediately, others must wait for them to be approved.

Anyway, your board is an earlier model that doesn’t appear to have protection diodes. In your case the motor controller chip (SMOOTH) is damaged. The most expedient solution is to purchase another board and transfer the 8-pin serial EEPROM chip at location U12 from patient to donor.

See this photo:

This vendor offers a PCB plus firmware transfer for US$70:

Use the part number on the rear of the board to order a spare. I believe it may be 2060-701335. If so, then this could be your PCB:

2061 701335 B00AT

Ok I’m looking - but I can not find a match for mine - it’s Western Digital Caviar *SE WD2500JS

2061 - 701335 B00AT

I’m assuming that you’re telling me that I can remove the U12 thinga ma giggy and …I’m just IN WAY over my head.  I think I’m way over the geek kids head too although they refuse to admit it. 

I believe that’s a match. The “2061” number is on a sticker and refers to the fully loaded PCB. The “2060” number would be printed on the PCB itself. It identifies the bare PCB.

You need to find someone with soldering skill to remove and replace the EEPROM chip. If you damage this chip, then the data recovery cost will be much greater.

Consider that if you purchase a working PCB, then you could always resell it on eBay after you have recovered your data.

Well if I knew anyone who was handy with any kind of tool - I’ve got a list.  I asked around.  My son has a friend who…and I have a friend from high school who…or -

anyway possibilities but not any time soon. 

My question is this:  Western Digital sent me a replacement.  If I don’t send back the damaged drive they will charge me 90 bucks for 250 gigs.  Steep.  I’d rather hang on to the old one in the hopes of someday recovering the music.

Sound reasonable.