WD TV LIVE, turn it off but still hot

If I turn off the WD TV Live, remains hot, very hot.

I have to disconnect the power supply? :dizzy_face:

Firmware release: Release 1.06.15

Thanks

It depends on how old your Live is, but the NEWER Live’s (and all Live Plusses) COMPLETELY turn off when you turn off the power.   The earlier Live’s (made before something like June '10) just go into a kind of “Standby” mode.

But either way, it should not be “VERY HOT.”

Hi Macrunner,

   The device is faulty. Get is changed.  It was a similar case with me. It took enarly a month and half to get a repalcement. But the thats the way.

Regards,

Subhashis

 I suppose one housefire related to this problem would spark some interest in the legal world.

You are NUTS, and a fear-monger.   Posts like that will get you banned.

No, it’s not a “design flaw.”

The OLDER WDTV Lives didn’t actually switch off at all; they just turned off the network and video, but the device CPU and memory remained active.

The newer WDTV Lives and all Live+'s completely shut down.

You can tell which is which by how long it takes them to boot up.

The older Live took about 5 seconds; the newer Live and all Live+'s take almost 1 minute because they are “cold starting.”

Fire hazard??  C’mon.   It’d have to exceed 400 degrees before it could ingite paper.   Find a friend that has an IR thermometer and measure the temperature.   I doubt it exceeds even 140 degrees.   

If it doesn’t cause a third degree burn if you touch it, it’s not hot enough to start a fire.

Electricity waste?   Yeah, that’s true.   They used about 6 extra watts.

Macrunner’s TV live earlier model like mine gets hot! Very hot in fact!  I am not stating anying but the truth here. 6 watts? That is Nonsense!  Don’t beleive it . A  7 watt night lite bulb is cool to the touch by comparison to this unit when left plugged in and turned off. Secondly,  Why else would WD have changed the way it powers down its players with the newer plus units if not for eliminating the heat and safety concerns. Surley, if takes longer to power up the newer model players & that can’t be what WD was looking for as an improvement, no, instead, they had concerns about safety and the excessive heat build up that the earlier tv live units have and made the newer live plus units completely power down to eliminate the player from excessive heat.

I use my WD TV Live Plus media player without any of the heat problems. When I turn it off it is off. No excessive heat whatsoever. Unplugging the older hot box after every use  quite frankly, **bleep**. Looking to get rid of it and buying another Plus unit to replace the hot box media player. Amazon has them on sale for around $85.00.

Mozilfox wrote:

 Why else would WD have changed the way it powers down its players with the newer plus units if not for eliminating the heat and safety concerns.

WD has posted here about it several times:   It was a requirement to satisfy a European (EuP) “Green” certification to consume less than 1 watt when turned “off.”  Go do your research before you make irresponsible, nonsensical accusations.

“it’s HOT!” doesn’t mean a darn thing.   And “Very Hot” doesn’t mean anything stronger.  How hot is it?   Measure it.  

The power supply I have is 1.0A at 12V, which means what?   It means it’s rated for only 12 WATTS!

It is ENTIRELY possible you have a FAULTY unit, or you’re blocking the ventilation.

I’m arguing against your unfounded presumption that its basic design is a fire hazard and WD fomented some kind of conspiratorial excuse for a design change.

Unfounded? Please stop preaching here. This is a well known problem that you are obviously downplaying. You said that this unit only uses 6 watts when turned off. Well, That is not true. It uses 11 watts when it is on and 9 watts when it is turned off. That is unacceptable for any number of reasons. See attached Youtube video of a calibrated current draw at all stages of this players performance:

http://youtu.be/wwr_T39TT-c

In addition you seem to be downplaying all of the facts that have stated.  My experience has been noted here as many others as well.  My player has never had its ventilation blocked it just uses an unacceptable amount of electricity if allowed to be plugged in when it is turned off. I can prove that there are many others with the same problem so quit trying downplay my assertions about the earlier models shortcomings! Hot is hot!  I have not put a temp gage on it but I know hot when I feel it . Early model is a Poor design that was later corrected and improved by WD TV Live Plus. Period, end of story!!!

And how about this post from Nilphenix:

http://community.wdc.com/t5/WD-TV-HD/Media-Player-heat/td-p/4978
48
Fire Hazard / Neglected suggestions / Consolidation / Developer Transparency
Status: Acknowledged
by Nilphenix on 03-23-2010 09:23 PM - last edited on 03-31-2010 09:23 AM

** Concerning the fire hazard comment, let me just say this: NO other consumer electronic device that I own stays warm to the touch when it has been off all day. I’ve worked in electronics and I can tell you that there are electronic parts, like certain types of capactors for instance, that don’t do well when kept powered up for very long periods of time (think, months or years on end).

“WD has a warning to unplug the device when not in use for extended periods of time. What constitutes an extended period of time? What if I use the device for a couple of hours nearly every day and let it sit plugged in when off (like almost everyone would do)? Other ideas here point out that the HDMI stays active when the device is off, and the warm spot I’m mentioning is right above the HDMI port. Have these units been tested to prove that the HDMI section can stay powered on for a year or more and not have a potential for any kind of fire hazard? Even if it’s not a fire hazard, tell us why we have to pay the extra couple of bucks every year to the electric companies to keep an inactive HDMI port active. But, seriously, address the fire hazard comment first”

Tony, let me know if you want more evidence of the problem that you claim is my unfounded presumption!!!

@macrunner and @Mozilfox I don’t know what your definition of hot or very hot is.

All I know is that when my Live (original version) is running it does not generate even enough heat to keep my coffee warm.  So to me that is luke warm at best.

However, in my experiments I did find that if I turned my TV face down, there was a sweet spot on the back where the coffee did stay marginally above room temperature. Too bad I can’t watch TV at the same time.

But now I am inspired too continue the coffee warming experiment with other devices and appliances around the home.

Mozilfox, you need to pick an argument and stick with it.

First you’re arguing that the thing is a fire hazard. Now you’re switching positions and arguing that it wastes $9.00 in electricity per year. That’s 24 hours per day for a full year at 11 cents per kWh. I’m not arguing that point.

Calibrated current draw? How would you know that? The poster of that YouTube video didn’t even mention how he measured that. You made that “fact” up, but it’s still moot. It just says it uses 14mW of power. Is that going to start a fire? NO.

The FACT that both the power supply and load are both UL certified would provide REAL evidence to my position.

Downplaying facts? You’ve presented no facts to downplay. You’ve just presented anecdotal flotsam.

And what of Nilphenix’s post? Sounds just like yours… Just baseless assertions… His statements are flat wrong… I just checked the PDF manuals for every one of my AV components and TVs… The all have the same guidance to unplug when unused for long periods. So his premise is wrong, thus his conclusions are fallacious.

His statement of the fact the HDMI interface is where the hot spot is may make sense… The Live and Plus use a full metal EMI shield which acts as a radiant passive heat sink. There is EMI sealing tape directly adjacent to the HDMI port which contacts the external case.

The ONLY device on the main board which generates heat in any appreciable amount is the Sigma processor. The LEDs probably are next in line. The sigma has a passive convective heat sink on it. The HDMI logic is on the sigma. The network interface is on the sigma. The memory is external.

@Mozilfox,

It is very obvious from your post that you have no experience in the servicing or testing of electronic or electrical equipment. Manufacturers are not as stupid as consumers think they are. Maybe you should read the ISO Standards at ISO (International Organisation for Standardisation). http://www.iso.org/iso/home.html instead of using questionable testing practices posted on youtube.

All certified products sold in the market place are ISO manufactured in ISO certified manufacturing plants and farther tested and certified in an independent ISO certification laboratory. The ISO certification is then submitted to a certified electrical testing laboratory in your country of residence for electrical certification and compliance to that country’s electrical and safety laws before that product can be sold in the market place. Therefore; before a consumer purchases the product; that product has been triple checked for safety compliance.  

Page 161 of the WDTV Live PDF Manual contains the Regulatory Compliance Certification numbers. A copy of the WDTV Live product certification will be available from the certified electrical testing laboratory in your country of residence.

The WDTV Live certification will contain references to the following compliance certification.

IEC 60065 Audio, video and similar electronic apparatus - Safety requirements

IEC 60574 Audio-visual, video and television equipment and systems

EC 60331 Tests for Electric Cables under Fire Conditions

IEC 60335 Safety of electrical household appliances

IEC 60950 Safety of information technology equipment

IEC 62301 Household electrical appliances - Measurement of standby power

IEC 62379 Common control interface for networked digital audio and video products

ISO 10840:2008 covers the following aspects of fire testing of plastics materials and products:

selection of appropriate tests that reflect realistic end-use conditions;

grouping of the reaction-to-fire characteristics that any given test or tests can measure;

assessment of tests as to their relevance in areas such as material characterization, quality

control, pre‑selection, end-product testing, environmental profiling and DfE (Design for the Environment);

definition of potential problems that may arise when plastics are tested in standard fire tests.

The scope of the standard does not include the development or design of new fire tests for plastics. However, the flexibility of approach that is indicated with respect to the mounting and fixing of test specimens will be valuable when fire-testing laboratories and certification bodies are considering how to evaluate ranges of plastics that are used in different ways.

ISO/IEC Guide 46:1985: Comparative testing of consumer products and related services – General principles.

The principles are applicable to consumer products, services and a combination of both. They may usefully be followed by bodies and associations which conduct comparative testing programmes. The purpose of this Guide is to enable meaningful test results and information to be presented in a way which will help consumers and others to make an informed choice suitable to their own needs. The notes offer some but not all the means of applying the principles.

ISO/IEC Guide 14:2003 : Purchase information on goods and services intended for consumers.

ISO/IEC Guide 14:2003 is applicable to the provision of information concerning products and services before purchase. It outlines general principles and recommendations for contents, methods, formats and design such that the information will enable consumers to compare and choose products or services. Furthermore, ISO/IEC Guide 14:2003 recommends general rules for the creation and implementation of purchase information systems and purchase information bodies.

It is addressed to the following: committees preparing standards for consumer products or services; product designers, manufacturers, technical writers or others engaged in the work of drafting such information, and, in particular, those who are members of purchase information bodies; other bodies such as enforcement agencies or consumer ombudsmen.

ISO/IEC Guide 14:2003 does not deal with conformity assessment or instructions for use. It does not give detailed guidance on information that is provided verbally or electronically.

After reading the relevant safety documentation, if you have any safety concerns with the WDTV Live, the proper course of action is to contact the electrical safety authorities in your country of residence, in writing, and outline your safety concerns.

How many items in your posession use 9 watts of electricity when completely shut off?  How many electrical items in your house use 81.8% of its full power draw when turned off? That’s my point!

Up until last month the remainder of these older inferior hot box WD TV Live units were being sold throughout Canada at Staples outlets at a fire sale price of $ 29.99 each. Why so cheap???

Ref:  

http://forums.redflagdeals.com/staples-wdtv-live-clearance-29-97-a-1075524/

Mozilfox wrote:

 

Up until last month the remainder of these older inferior hot box WD TV Live units were being sold throughout Canada at Staples outlets at a fire sale price of $ 29.99 each. Why so cheap???

 

Because they were discontinued in the US and Canada.   The Live+ superceded it LONG before August 2011.   They’re just clearing stock.  Happens all the time.   The Live continues to be sold in other markets, though.

But as I’ve stated before, The LIVE had a design change in JUNE 2010, more than 14 months before that “Fire Sale” to implement the same power-control MCU as the Live+.   The Live+ started selling at the same time.

 How many electrical items in your house use 81.8% of its full power draw when turned off? 

Quite a few, actually.   Like every cell phone I have when it’s on AC power… 

Ok, you’ve made your point.   The older devices have a higher than normal Vampire load.   As was said countless times, no one is arguing its standby load.   Time for you to move on.

Mozilfox wrote:

That’s my point!

Actually your first point seemed to be that the LIVE was a fire hazard which would spark interest in the legal world. Several people rightfully called BS on that.

Mozilfox wrote:

Up until last month the remainder of these older inferior hot box WD TV Live units were being sold throughout Canada at Staples outlets at a fire sale price of $ 29.99 each. Why so cheap???

As Tony Points out, Best Buy and other retailers DROPPED the Live from their listings a YEAR AGO.  The Live hasn’t been actively sold in North America by WD for over a year.  North America isn’t listed under the “Availability” section if you browse the media players… it has been superceded by the Live Plus in North America.

Staples is dumping it BECAUSE they’ve spent a year slashing the prices and STILL haven’t been able to sell their remaining stock.  They’re stuck with the things.

How many items in your posession use 9 watts of electricity when completely shut off?  How many electrical items in your house use 81.8% of its full power draw when turned off? That’s my point!

 But, it’s not “completely shut off”.  You repeating misinformation doesn’t make it true.  The old hardware revision stayed on… it just turned off the outputs.  It was in “standby”, not “completely off”.  That’s how they could come back on in seconds instead of minutes.

But, WD was legally obligated to change the standby power consumption in order to be able to sell the device in the EU.  Now when you press the power button, it is a deeper standby mode – no power goes to the main processor.

Most of my TVS and VCRs have consumed far more than 9 watts when in “standby”.  I think my “best” VCR consumes 11.  The percentage this is in regards to the “on” power level is irrelevant.

If proper coolling is allowed for, if 15 watts 24/7 for 10 years doesn’t cause a fire, then there’s no way 9 watts would.

Tony wrote " Quite a few, actually.   Like every cell phone I have when it’s on AC power…

When it’s on AC Power???  The question was how many electrical items in your house use 81.8% of its full power draw when turned off? Not when its on AC power!  Or charging, that would be on! Off, as in powered off! You know, like when you click the power button off with your WD TV Live Meda player remote control!

Since you now acknowledge the point I have been making all along that this unit is a Vampire sucking energy consuming beast,  I will be happy to move on. However, you won’t be satisfied until you have the last word. So have at it!   You  will be here waiting to attack the next poster that has exactly the same gripe with his or her WD TV Live earlier model media player as I and others have.  Not to continue to beat a dead horse, then, I am through with this discussion, Cheers!

Like any other device of any kind from any manufacturer… if you don’t like the vampire power consumption when in “standby”, then just unplug it, or turn off the power bar.

This isn’t an issue with the WDTV Live only.  The greenies have been saying to unplug things, and quoting the yearly costs of leaving things plugged in, for YEARS… long before the Live ever hit the market.

If you don’t like the level of standy power consumption:

  • unplug it when not in use
  • turn off the power to the wall wart when not in use
  • sell it on eBay and buy a second revision one with less vampire power

I’m not really seeing an Energy Star logo on the box to indicate that it would have stellar power requirements, whether on or standby.

 You  will be here waiting to attack the next poster that has exactly the same gripe

*WHICH*  FREAKING GRIPE? 

The idea that it’s a fire hazard because it stays warm?   Darn skippy I’ll attack anyone who spouts such nonsense!

The idea that it uses more power than necessary when in standby?   This’ll be the FOURTH  time I’ve said it:  I have no argument with that “gripe,” and I agreed with you on THAT point on my first response to you!

Sorry to have to come back and answer you yet again about the gripes. 1. The title of the this thread says it all: Turned off but still hot. Do you have memory issues?  I said that it is hot as in one step up from very warm. This is what  others here were  complaining about as well as myself. Roofingguy pretty much finished this thread for me. His suggestions are what I was planning on doing. Get rid of the old hot box energy waisting  player and replace it with another plus player. Lets just agree to disagree and move on.  Everything WD is just great and your cronies will stand by your assertions and all is well in WD Land. LOL

Mozilfox wrote:

  1. The title of the this thread says it all: Turned off but still hot. Do you have memory issues?  I said that it is hot as in one step up from very warm. This is what  others here were  complaining about as well as myself.  

 

Your definition of hot is inconsistent with my observations. I used a thermometer to measure the operating temperature of both of my WD Live units and neither got above 95.2F (~35C) when they were RUNNING. As a reference, normal body temperature is 97-100F/36-37.5C.

So by your definition every person in the world is a fire hazard.:smileyvery-happy: Or do you mean everyone is HOT.:smileyvery-happy:

PS. Still have not found any other device to keep my coffee warm other than the TV. But gave up on that because I wanted to watch TV:angry:.

Mozilfox wrote:

Sorry to have to come back and answer you yet again about the gripes… Do you have memory issues?

Well, let’s see here.  So far, you’ve declared, in this order:

   1:  (Oh, wait a sec.  Your first post was deleted for some reason.)   The WD is so hot it’s a Fire Hazard.  I’m arguing against this point.

   2:  Excessive Heat.  WD Changed the design because it’s a fire hazard.    I’m arguing against this point.

   3:  WDTV uses too much power when it’s idle.   I’ve agreed with this statement four times.

   4:  Back to it being a fire hazard … and using 9W of power at idle.    I’m arguing against the first, and have stipulated to the second.

   5:  Using too much power at idle.   Again, no argument from me.

   6:  Back to being hot.   Ok, fine.  It’s hot.   Big fraggin’ deal.

I don’t have any memory issues.   You are manic.   You have no capacity to argue rationally or logically.   Your franticism borders on comical.